Erto, Italy, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Erto

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The crag Erto, below the village Casso

Nicholas Hobley

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

4a - 9a

Height

100

Routes number

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

Rope

70m

The steeply overhanging Erto has long been known as one of the hardest crags in Italy, hitting the limelight a few years ago with Luca Zardini’s first ascent of "The big Mother" (8c+).

Thankfully most routes are somewhat easier than Zardini’s tespiece, but the routes require plenty of power and stamina, especially since the rock tends to be extremely polished. And thankfully the sector called “No big”, located just a few hundred meters away, has plenty of slab routes from 4a-7a+.

Access

From the south: take the A27 Mestre – Belluno motorway and exit at Longarone. Reach Longarone and then turn off right for Erto, Val Cellina and Pordenone. The crag springs into view after the tunnels and the Vajont dam.

Logistics

Hotels in Longarone

Period

Climbing is possible all year round as the overhang protects against the rain. Autumn and spring tend to be the best time of year, but climbing is also possible on sunny winter days.

Climb

Steeply overhanging powerful routes

Bibliography

Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Con le falesie Coi, Val Barance, Igne, Cajada, Maè, Podenzoi, Malcolm, Teatro, Casso, Erto, Cimolais, Polpet, Val Galina, Soverzene, Soccher, Dolada, Teverone, Quantin, Fadalto Basso, Ceresera, Mas, Le Rosse, Mis, Val Canzoi, Le Perine, Fonzaso, Tarzan Wall

Erto - The crag Erto, below the village Casso

Sandro Neri - Sandro Neri in a historic photo dating back to 1987: climbing Tucson 8a+ at Erto, Italy.

Erto - Luca Zardini climbing The Big Mother 8c+, Erto.

Erto - Le vie di riscaldamento e le placche 'No big', Erto.

Erto - Luca Zardini climbing La grande linea dei sogni 8c+/9a, Erto.

Erto - Luigi Billoro climbing Tucson 8a, Erto.

Erto - Luca Giupponi climbing Mister Rase 8a+, Erto.

Erto - Luigi Billoro climbing Lucrezia 7b+, Erto.

Sport climbing in the Belluno Dolomites - Sport climbing in the Belluno Dolomites

Erto - I ragazzi dello zoo di Erto: Mauro Corona climbing Supervip, 7c, in 1985

Erto - I ragazzi dello zoo di Erto: Fabio De Cesero repeating Sogni di Gloria... the start of many hard climbs

Erto - I ragazzi dello zoo di Erto: Icio Dall'Omo making the famoso cross-through move of Aikido: 8b+ in 1990.

See all photos

Sectors

1 - 30

Routes

N°	Name	Difficulty
1	La capra	6b
2	Saten	7a+
3	W le donne	6c+
4	La cassana	7b
5	Saputella	7a+
6	Tramonto Rosso	7a
7	Dressage	?
8	Occhi bugiardi	7a
9	El pazo	7b
10	Iron Butterfly	7a
11	No comment	7b
12	Pop-pon-pin	7c
13	R.E.M.	7b; All. 7c+
14	Tortuga	7b
15	Poltergeist	8a+; L2P.
16	La canna (I.R.Z.E.)	7a+
17	Joker	8a
18	Il ritorno di Ringo	8b
19	L'Agna menia	8a+
20	Sperandio	6b+
21	La nipote	7a+
22	Brooklin	6c
23	Freedent	7a+/b
24	Super Phoenix	7b
25	Mission	7a
26	Sandriccio	7c+
27	Osa e riposa	7c+/8a
28	Erto express	8a/b
29	Mano di clown	6c
30	Dito di clown	7a

31 - 51

Routes

N°	Name	Difficulty
31	Cassiopea	7c
32	Ombra del dubbio	7b
33	La conchiglia	8a
34	Super vip	7c; All. 8a
35	9 ottobre plastic day	8a/8a+
36	Bricolage	8a+
37	Sogni di gloria	8b+
38	The last way	8c+
39	The big mother	8c+
40	Mocho	8b
41	Pole position	8a
42	Variante di dx Pole...	8b
43	Jurassic climb	8b
44	Aikido	8b
45	Tucson	8a
46	Mister rase	8a+
47	Mister transfert	8b
48	Cicutina	7c+
49	Stricnina	7c; All. 8a
50	Lucrezia Borgia	7b+; All. 7c
51	Ombre atomiche	8a+

52 - 64

Routes

N°	Name	Difficulty
52	L'Ertana	7c
53	Free dog	8a+/8b
54	Tropicana	7c, 8a+
55	Diretta pip crash	7b
56	Pip crash	6c+; All. 7a+
57	Colpo di grazia	7b; All. 7b+
58	Acido lattico	7c
59	Testimonio silenzioso	8a/8a+
60	Nothing life	7c
61	Fumogena	7c
62	Il mago del gelato	8a+/8b
63	La mela di Odessa	7b+
64	Coco slip	7b

65 - 81

Routes

N°	Name	Difficulty
65	Manolesta	7a
66	Libellula rosa	7a
67	Il telefono	6b+
68	Passera scopaiola	6c
69	W Mao	6b+
70	Pipistrelli	6b
71	Contessa	7a
72	Principessa	7b
73	Duchessa	7a+
74	Alien	6b+
75	Matha Hari	6b
76	Pensionati	6a+
77	Molina	6a
78	Orzoro	6c
79	Tapioca	7b
80	Filo da torcere	7b
81	Giochi di pietra	7a

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