The routes

This classic route is one of the most repeated on the Marmolada. It follows a line up the South Pillar of Punta Penia, overlooking the Passo Ombretta, to the southwest of Marmolada’s immense south face. The Pillar is divided into...

Sole Incantatore is a beautiful climb up Aguglia di Goloritzé, perhaps the most popular on this huge limestone tower and without a doubt the most repeated multipitch sport climb in Sardinia. Established by abseil in 1995 by Maurizio Oviglia, it...

Somnium up the South Face of Neunerspitze (Sasso delle Nove) offers fabulous slab climbing, up exceptional rock, surpassed perhaps only by the panorama from the 2968m summit. The pitches and belays are protected with bolts, 2 medium sized Friends are...

This modern and demanding route follows the large black streaks up through the overhangs, crossing via del Drago at half height where this traverses leftwards above the roofs. The climbing, in particular the second pitch, is pumpy and sustained. Some...

Climbed over two days onsight, Spaßbremse breaches difficulties up to 7+/8- and offers “beautiful climbing up dreamlike rock.” Just like nearby Neolit, this route was climbed without bolts.

Spes Ultima Dea is a big rock climb up the ENE Face of Crozzon di Brenta. It varied climbing, with continuous difficulties throughout, not too difficult and not too easy, up "titanic" rock.

Climbed it trad wherever possible and added bolts where the compact slabs accepted no gear. The first ascent was carried out over several days throughout autumn and winter. The climb has been called Speta che Vegno, wait for us, because it...

Rock climb established in July 2002 by local Scoiattolo climber Massimo "Mox" Da Pozzo and his colleague from the GDF Cortina mountain rescue team Danilo Serafini. The route climbs the pillar to the left of "Super tegolina", and is paired...

Pleasant outing first climbed by Maurizio Bergamo and Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo. The route follows the large crack that is reached on pitch 2 and follows this all the way to the top, hence it's "classic" nature.

The obvious Capo d’Uomo arête exerts a strong draw as you observe it from the path that leads to this ridge, and gives the impression that it sinks straight down into the sea. I was very torn about whether to...

A relatively easy and popular climb (UIAA 4 and 5, one 6- crux) up the left-hand arête of the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes. The three hard pitches traverse leftwards past two large yellow roofs at half height. Paradoxically, the...

A splendid historic route, one of the best in the Dolomites. Despite numerous repeats the rock is still excellent with plenty of threads.

This rock climb was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon on his own in 14 hours. 8 pitches lead up the SE arete of the spectacular Pedra Longa tower, above the Baunei sea. Attention: one section of loose rock.

Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections...

This is one of the most interesting and popular climbs in the vicinity of Cortina. It tackles the cracklines up the Punta Fiames’ obvious, airy arête.

Great route established by Massimo Da Pozzo up the second arête on the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes.With all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the...