The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

356
Routes in archive
Cascata di Fontanazzo
Cascata di Fontanazzo
II/3+
The Fontanazzo icefall can be seen clearly from the road, is easy to get to and has two characteristic steep sections, one on the second pitch and one on the final pitch. If the drip on the second pitch isn't...
Cattedrale di destra
Cattedrale di destra - Serrai di Sottoguda
II/4
La Cattedrale is located on the righthand side of the canyon and its imposing nature means that "The Cathedral" simply cannot be mistaken. The icefall is split into three main lines, and this central route offers vertical, not too sustained...
Cattedrale di centro
Cattedrale di centro - Serrai di Sottoguda
II/4+
La Cattedrale is located on the righthand side of the canyon and its imposing nature means that "The Cathedral" simply cannot be mistaken. The icefall is split into three main lines, and this central route offers vertical, not too sustained...
Cascata del sole
Cascata del sole - Serrai di Sottoguda
II/3+
The Cascata del sole is a great line which, given the right conditons, can be climbed in the sun. Starting from a wide base, the route narrows as it gains height into a small gully towards the end.Sottoguda represents an...
La Spada nella Roccia
La Spada nella Roccia - Serrai di Sottoguda
II/5
La Spada nella Roccia is a stupendous drip which forms from a cave. It was first climbed by Maurizio Gallo in the 1980's and represented an important step forward for piolet traction in the Western Alps.Sottoguda represents an obligatory ice...
Cattedrale di sinistra
Cattedrale di sinistra - Serrai di Sottoguda
II/6
La Cattedrale is located on the righthand side of the canyon and its imposing nature means that "The Cathedral" simply cannot be mistaken. The icefall is split into three main lines, and this central route offers vertical, not too sustained...
Excalibur
Excalibur - Serrai di Sottoguda
II/4+
Excalibur is undoubtedly the most beautiful icefall in the valley. Three steps connected together create an exemplary line, aesthetically perfect. The first drip which enters the water is highly characteristic... place protection immediately to avoid the cold bath!Sottoguda represents an...
Chandelle Levure
Chandelle Levure - Gran Paradiso
II/4
Nice 180m icefall famous for the evocative amphitheatre it climbs through up its last pitch. This also happens to be perhaps the most interesting pitch of the entire route...
Candelabro del coyote
Candelabro del coyote - Gran Paradiso
II/4+
The first clean step is followed by an extremely aesthetic though somewhat short free standing drip on the second pitch.
Parto gemellare
Parto gemellare - Gran Paradiso
I/4
Excellent route to finish off the day. The first pitch icefall is beautiful and good fun.
Valmiana
Valmiana - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3
After a great first pitch the difficulties ease off somewhat. Watch out for avalanches.
Gran Val
Gran Val - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3
If there is snow cover the icefall is extremely dangerous. The third pitch is outstanding.
Ciampa
Ciampa - Monte Rosa
3+/4
Nice line first ascended in 1983 by the forerunner of ice climbing Alessandro Jaccod. Beware of avalanche danger after heavy snowfall.
Bonne année
Bonne année - Gruppo del M.te Rosa
II/4
Nice sunny climb, not to be missed. Carefully assess the period and stability if the ice. The final belay is difficult to find, search for it beneath a small overhang on the left. This is a 5 star icefall... or...
Candela di Senden
Candela di Senden - Monte Rosa
I/4+
The first 30m are great, but then the climbing becomes slightly less interesting. An excellent end-of-the-day climb.
Punta Jolanda
Punta Jolanda - Monte Rosa
3
Another great creation by the legendary Alessandro Jaccod. On the second pitch do not belay on the old peg belay on the left, but continue on to the top and belay on the right (bolts).


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