The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22 September 2020.
A French / Swiss team comprised of Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer and Charles Noirot has climbed a difficult new route up the West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau in the Rowaling Himalaya in Nepal. Climbing alpine style from 26 - 29 October 2019, Schüpbach and Welfringer ascended their Trinité (1400m, M6, AI 5) to the mountain’s north summit.
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of: Sandy Allan, Kazu Amano, Valeri Babanov, Jordi Corominas, Fred Degoulet, Ines Papert, Andrej Štremfelj.
On Torre di Aimonin in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach has made the first ascent of 'Know your cat', a new trad variant to the rock climbs Know yourself and Cani & Gatti
On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by kayak.
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach have forged a new route up Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia.
On the North Pillar of Gross Wellhorn (Bernese Oberland, Switzerland) Silvan Schüpbach with the help of various climbing partners established two difficult multi-pitch alpine climbs, Adrenlinchiubi (7c max 7b obligatory, 250m) and Röck u Zöpf (7c max 7b obligatory, 230m).
From 25 - 30 April 2017, Silvan Schüpbach and Dimitri Vogt repeated the Muir Wall up El Capitan in Yosemite. During 6 days on the 1000m southwest face the two Swissmen climbed all 33 pitches free at 5.13c (8a+).
Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber, Fabio Lupo, Jérôme Sullivan and Antoine Moineville have made the first ascent of Metrophobia (ice 120°, A2+, 7a), a 1700m new big wall climb on Apostel Tommelfinger in Southern Greenland. The new route is believed to be the first up the West Face of the 2315m high mountain.
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.
The report by Matteo Della Bordella about the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt (900m, 7b+), the new route up Shark's Tooth in Greenland established onsight and in a single push in August 2014 together with Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber. A great adventure that involved kayaks (to paddle to and from the mountain), total isolation, superb climbing and a close encounter with a polar bear.
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber have made the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt, a new route up the Shark's Tooth in Greenland.
On 6 and 7 June 2014 Silvan Schüpbach and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of El Gordo (6c/7a, 450m) on Wendenstöcke, Switzerland
The video of the Ragni di Lecco alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo della Bordella and Swissman Silvan Schüpbach climbed the Californiana Sit Start on Fitz Roy, an enchainment of Aguja de la Silla with Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Following the Australian pioneers Glenn Singleman and Nic Feteris: the story of the Great Trango Tower BASE jump carried out by Andrey Lebedev and Vladimir Murzaev on 10 August 2013.
The two Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo della Bordella, and Swissman Silvan Schüpbach have climbed what they have called the Californiana Sit Start, an enchainement of Aguja de la Silla with Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia.