Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for the coming future.
The Ice Climbing World Cup 2013 begins in January and takes place in South Korea, Switzerland, Italy, Romania and Russia.
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
On 6/10/2012 Ines Papert made the first free ascent of Schwarze Madonna (8a+, 180m) on Untersberg in Germany.
At the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites the French climbers Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit have repeated Alpenliebe and Camillotto Pellesier. Bodet shares her thoughts about these two climbs.
Ines Papert, Jon Walsh and Joshua Lavigne have established Sensory Overload (1200m, 5.11+, A1) up Mount Asgard, Baffin Island.
The video The Red Helmet which explores, through the eyes of a child, our dreams and teaches us how to confront our fears.
The second edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award will take place on 6 July 2012 at Selva di Val Gardena in the Italian Dolomites. The alpinists nominated for this award are Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards for the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto, Nicolas Favresse and Olivier Favressee for their Greenland Big Walls and Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya for their new route up Great Trango Tower in Pakistan.
The Piolet d'Or 2012 was awarded to two ascents, K7 West in Pakistan climbed by the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, and Saser Kangri II in India climbed by the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson. The ascent of Torre Egger in Argentina by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied received a special mention, while Robert Paragot from France received the "Walter Bonatti" Lifetime Achievement Award.
The Piolet d'Or gets underway in Courmayeur and Chamonix today and 2012 celebrates the 20th anniversary of the world's most famous alpinism award. Four days of international alpinism at the foot of Mont Blanc to discuss, watch and celebrate alpinism in all its forms, to pay homage to Walter Bonatti and to present the Lifetime's Achievement award to Robert Paragot.
In February the Czech climber Lucie Hrozovà repeated Illuminati (Dolomites, Italy) together with Mirek Matejc and Palo Rajcan, while in March Mirek Matejc repeated Law and Order (Diebsöfen, Austria).
A team comprised of Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser, Lukas Seiwald, Kurt Astner, Emanuele Ciullo, Thomas Senf and Scott Milton has just returned from the Romsdalen region in Norway where they repeated a series of routes and made the first ascents of a number of important new ice climbs.
Greg Boswell and Charly Fritzer have repeated Illuminati, the difficult mixed route in Val Lunga, Dolomites, established by Albert Leichtfried.
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
On 27/01/2012 Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer carried out the first female ascent of Illuminati, the incredible mixed route established by Albert Leichtfried in 2006 up in Val Lunga, Selva Gardena (Italy).
After an aborted attempt on Mount Kyzyl Asker, Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger established Quantum of Solace (ABO, WI 7+, M7, 600m) up the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan.
A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.