The October climbing in Sardinia report provided by Maurizio Oviglia: Capo Pecora, Jurassic Park and a series of new modern multi-pitch rock climbs.
Maurizio Oviglia introduces "Marinaio di foresta" (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).
La Sportiva athletes discover Sardinia’s unexplored blocks
Czech climbers Jan Kares and Slavek Dostal establish the multi-pitch route Megalodon (220m, 7b+) at Dinopark, Baunei, Sardinia.
On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi), one of the characteristic peaks in Sardinia.
Los Compadres, new rock climb by Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu at Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia
Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu have made the first ascent of Los Compadres (5c+, 335m) at the Gole di Gorroppu in Sardinia.
The Book of Selvaggio Blu by Mario Verin - Giulia Castelli that documents the colours, nature and the immense, wild beauty of the area located between Pedra Longa and Cala Sisine in Sardinia's Supramonte region. The book review by Francesca Colesanti.
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established ground-up from on 14/16 and 18 May 2013 and then redpointed on 20/05/2013. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
In May 2013 Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu made the first ascent of (475m, 6a) in Sardinia's Gole di Gorroppu.
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli massif in 1983 and freed by Oviglia and Roberto Monchino in 1985. This is a pleasant way to remember (in perspective) how we were in the past and also look forward into the future.
Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.
During three weekends between 2012 and 2013 Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti, Stefano Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro and Adriano Cavallaro made the first ascent of Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro up beautiful Punta Giradili above Baunei in Sardinia. 230m high, established ground-up, with 7c obligatory climbing and two crux pitches still to be freed, probably at 8b. Canale provides the details.
The report by Maurizio Oviglia about two beautiful needles in Sardinia: the recently restored Dillosauro 6b+, first climbed by Enzo Lecis in 1995 and Sinfonia del mulino bianco, the new route established together with Giorgio Caddeo above Baunei.
Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed for the first time in 1981 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla and Alessandro Gogna via Sinfonia dei mulini a vento and this route remained untouched.
Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
The climbing meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" will take place on 20 and 21 October 2012 at Roccadoria Monteleone, Sardinia.