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Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest island by sailing boat. Kent provides the details.
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
28/10/2024 - Climbing
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
The development of Gola di Mikado, a beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia, has been completed thanks to a crowdfunding campaign. All the details directly from Maurizio Oviglia, who bolted the routes together with Antonio Iaria and Tatjana Goex
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
25/10/2024 - Alpinism
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
From 22 August to 26 September a small team of four Slovenian women comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed four new routes in the Indian Himalaya. These include the alpine style first ascent of the previously unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m).
Will Bosi repeats Spots of Time to climb four different 9A boulders
21/10/2024 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Spots of Time to climb four different 9A boulders
Scottish climber William Bosi has made the first repeat of Spots of Time, established by Aidan Roberts in the Lake District, UK, in February 2024. Bosi has now become the first person to climb four different V17/9A boulder problems.
Pou brothers establish Truenu, extreme multipitch on Peña Santa in Picos de Europa
10/10/2024 - Climbing
Pou brothers establish Truenu, extreme multipitch on Peña Santa in Picos de Europa
Eneko Pou and his brother Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Truenu' on the south face of Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of their friend and climbing partner Keita Kurakami.
Another new climb up Punta Emma, Rosengarten, Dolomites
20/09/2024 - Climbing
Another new climb up Punta Emma, Rosengarten, Dolomites
In summer 2024 Mariapia Ghedina and Diego Mabboni made the first ascent of 'Sto imparando a volare' on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif of the Dolomites, Italy.
Nathan Brown adds Civil Disobedience to Angels Landing in Zion Canyon
18/09/2024 - Climbing
Nathan Brown adds Civil Disobedience to Angels Landing in Zion Canyon
Earlier this year American alpinist and excavation contractor Nathan Brown, with the help of Jackson Marvell and Sam Mack, made the first ascent of 'Civil Disobedience' (V 5.9 A3) the right of the historic 'Lowe Route' on the north face of Angels Landing, Zion National Park, USA. Brown, who climbed...
Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza
18/09/2024 - Alpinism
Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza
The report by Leonardo Gheza who, earlier this summer with Luca Ducoli, established the multi-pitch 'Eclissi' (8a, 280m) on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites). This is Gheza's second new route here after 'Monologica', first ascended in 2023 with Angelo Contessi.
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
13/09/2024 - Climbing
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl have all repeated 'Seventh Direction' in the Rätikon, Austria. The 220m 8c multipitch on Drusenfluh was first ascended in 2022 by Alex Luger.
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango Tower, aka Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan. The 1100m big wall was first ascended in 1987 by...
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
04/09/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first repeats of 'The Gift' (8c, 350m) on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.

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