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Petzl Legend Tour Italy: Arco and the Sarca Valley, the cradle of Italian sport climbing
26/09/2022 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy: Arco and the Sarca Valley, the cradle of Italian sport climbing
The fourth episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy is now online and explores the cradle of Italian sport climbing, Arco and the Sarca Valley
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
23/09/2022 - Alpinism
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
Belayed by Jonathan Lechner, on 31/08/2021 Austrian climber Louis Gundolf repeated 'Safety Discussion', a difficult multipitch established in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner on the South Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria.
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Luka Potocar and Ai Mori control Koper
05/09/2022 - Competitions
Luka Potocar and Ai Mori control Koper
The fifth stage of the 2022 Lead World Cup was won on Saturday evening at Koper in Slovenia by home athlete Luka Potocar and Ai Mori from Japan. For both athletes this is their first victory in the Senior Lead World Cup
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
29/08/2022 - Interviews
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Angie Scarth-Johnson powers up Pornographie 9a at Céüse
23/08/2022 - Climbing
Angie Scarth-Johnson powers up Pornographie 9a at Céüse
18-year-old Australian rock climber Angie Scarth-Johnson has repeated the 9a Pornographie at Céüse in France.
Will Bosi fearless on Honey Badger, new 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove, UK
12/08/2022 - Alpinism
Will Bosi fearless on Honey Badger, new 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove, UK
Scottish rock climber William Bosi has made the first ascent of Honey Badger, an 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove in the Peak District, UK.
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
25/07/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles have made the first ascent of the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, climbing the inhospitable face in a single push from 11 - 16 July via their Ànima de corall. Toralles has described the line as 'the hardest route we have...
Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall repeat The Quarryman on Llanberis slate in Wales
21/07/2022 - Climbing
Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall repeat The Quarryman on Llanberis slate in Wales
Both Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall have repeated The Quarryman, the Johnny Dawes classic located in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
08/07/2022 - Climbing
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Adam Ondra on pulchritudinous Pungitopo in Valle di Laghel, Arco
14/06/2022 - Climbing
Adam Ondra on pulchritudinous Pungitopo in Valle di Laghel, Arco
The video of the first ascent of Pungitopo 8c+/9a at Red Point Wall in Valle di Laghel above the town of Arco, Italy.
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.