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Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
28/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
Eddie Fowke reports about the first leg of the Olympic Qualifier Series held in Shanghai 10 days ago. The second leg will take place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June and the combined results will enable the world’s best competition climbers to gain a place for the Paris...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana
19/05/2024 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana
38-year-old Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has sent his first 9a+, 'Papichulo' at Oliana in Spain.
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Speed, Boulder & Lead qualification results
17/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Speed, Boulder & lead qualification results
The second half of the men’s and women’s Boulder & lead qualifications opened day two at the Olympic Qualifier Series in Shanghai, China. Every competition round will be streamed live on Olympics.com. 
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
16/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & lead provisional rankings
The opening competition day of the Olympic Qualifier Series in Boulder & lead in Shanghai, China, concluded with Lee Dohyun and Ievgeniia Kazbekova at the top of the Boulder & lead provisional rankings.
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
13/05/2024 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb to the summit of Grand Capucin via the 'Bonatti-Ghigo' route,...
Speed & Boulder World Cups to take place in Salt Lake City, USA
03/05/2024 - Competitions
Speed & Boulder World Cups to take place in Salt Lake City, USA
The second stages of the Speed World Cup 2024 and Boulder World Cup 2024 will take place in Salt Lake City, USA, from 3 - 5 May 2024.
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
02/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
Melloblocco 2024 is just a few days away and preparations are in full swing. From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, will host the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across rock, snow, and ice, this has been described as 'the...
Stefano Ghisolfi is Ready to Fail
23/04/2024 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi is Ready to Fail
The video of Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi and his quest to repeat the first 9c in the world, 'Silence' at Flatanger in Norway, and the world's first 9A boulder problem, 'Burden of Dreams' at Lappnor in Finland.
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Janja Garnbret & Toby Roberts win World Cup Gold in Wujiang
15/04/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret & Toby Roberts win World Cup Gold in Wujiang
The first stage of the lead World Cup 2024 was won last weekend in Wujiang, China, by Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Great Britain’s Toby Roberts.
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
On 25/03/2024 Franz Anstein, Federico Maremonti and Andreas Tonelli skied what is likely to be a new line on Piz de Puez in the Dolomites, Italy. Called 'Canal sëura l uët', this couloir provides difficulties in the region of 5.1 E4, as Anstein explains in his report.

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