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Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
04/09/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first repeats of 'The Gift' (8c, 350m) on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...
Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)
16/08/2024 - Alpinism
Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)
Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra, together with Giovanna Mongilardi, have made the first ascent of 'Cric e Croc'. The 6-pitch rock climb is graded 6b+ max and is located on Rognon Vaudano, the cliff located below Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif dedicated to Davide...
Tiro Lead 2024, the climbing challenge at Ollomont in Valle d'Aosta
12/08/2024 - Climbing
Tiro Lead 2024, the climbing challenge at Ollomont in Valle d'Aosta
Valle d'Aosta, Italy, is to host the unique climbing challenge Tiro Lead. Once again the aim is to free two difficult sport climbs, this time at the new crag Cascata Lo Dard above Ollomont. This year's prize money totals €1,200; the initiative is open to everyone and will last all...
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
24/07/2024 - Climbing
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.
ReBolting- maintaining climbs in Switzerland
21/07/2024 - Climbing
ReBolting- maintaining climbs in Switzerland
The Rebolting association from Switzerland, dedicated to the maintenance of old climbing routes and supporting climbers in their maintenance efforts.
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
19/07/2024 - Alpinism
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
13/07/2024 - Climbing
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
The video of French climber Jules Marchaland making a rare repeat of 'Three Degrees of Separation', the iconic 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2007.
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...
Ferro, the cool summer crag  in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy)
05/07/2024 - Climbing
Ferro, the cool summer crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy)
Ferro is an atypical crag, a long way from the valley floor, immersed in unique alpine environment, where climbing is only a small part of the equation. Simone Pedeferri introduces the crag Ferro crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Val Masino, Italy), developed with Davide Spini, Max Piazza,...
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was established DTS style and is dedicated to his late friend...
Jernej Kruder cruises Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
16/06/2024 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder cruises Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Slovenia's Jernej Kruder has repeated 'Greenspit', the difficult trad route established by Didier Berthod in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

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