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Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the unclimbed SE Ridge; a search and rescue mission is currently...
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
21/08/2023 - Alpinism
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
On 23 July 2023 Nadine Wallner completed the Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in 16 hours and 20 minutes. The Austrian mountain guide teamed up with her Swiss colleague Simon Wahli for the 3600+ ascent that leads from the Lauterbrunnental to the 4158m summit in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
Video Patagonia: watch Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow repeat South African Route on Torres del Paine
27/07/2023 - Alpinism
Video Patagonia: watch Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow repeat South African Route on Torres del Paine
The video of Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow making a team-free ascent of the South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile).
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
19/07/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
Experienced alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, a 7180m peak in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair climbed alpine style and needed three bivouacs.
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway
The video of the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m), established on the north face of Grytetippen on Senja Island in Norway by Fay Manners and Freja Shannon in March 2023.
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.
Watch the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on Dent du Géant
28/06/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on Dent du Géant
The video of the first repeat of 'Cœur de Géant' on Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif carried out by French alpinists Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert and Kilian Moni on 17/06/2023
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
22/06/2023 - Alpinism
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
On 17/06/2023 the young French mountaineers Mathis Garayt (19), Arthur Poindefert (19), Kilian Moni (20) made the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on the NW Face of Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif. The 580m mixed climb is graded 580m, ED, M6+/7, WI 4+, 5c (5.10a) and...
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
Watch Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing in the Karakorum
06/06/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing in the Karakorum
The video 'A New Way Up' directed by Jake Holland, featuring Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing above the Hunza Valley in Pakistan's Karakorum. Using this groundbreaking paralpinism approach the pair made the first ascent of the Gulmit Tower (5801m) in July 2022.
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
01/06/2023 - Alpinism
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.
Benito Mussolini stripped of Italian Mountaineering Club honorary membership
25/05/2023 - Trekking
Benito Mussolini stripped of Italian Mountaineering Club honorary membership
During its annual national assembly, the Italian Mountaineering Club removed the name of Benito Mussolini from the register of its honorary members.
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
19/05/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
European mountaineers Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli have successfully climbed a new route on Meru South (6600m) in India. The new route on the mountain's east face was climbed alpine style and is called Goldfish (800m, M6+ A1).
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy
12/05/2023 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy
On 4 May 2023 in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla and Matteo Sella made the first free ascent of 'E ti vengo a cercare'. In 1980 Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin established all but the last pitch and the route lay remained unfinished until now.

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