1066 News found

On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to breach the mountain's east face. Schenk, who in 2016 established...

On 31 January 2023 Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina and Giovanni Ravizza established two 'amazing' mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (La Thuile, Valle d'Aosta): 'Tutte le Guide del Presidente' and 'Sento puzza di fuoco'.

Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the Dauphiné Alps.

In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...

35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.

Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.

Watch the video of Mari Augusta Salvesen making the first ascent of the trad climb Tazlov, a long term project of hers in Norway now graded 8b.

On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...

Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.

Austrian climber Angela Eiter introduces Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia she bolted with climbing partner Bernie Ruech

On 21/12/2022 Giovanni Placci made the third ascent of Bombardino ay Bus de La Stria close to Arco, Italy, following in the footsteps of Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi.

On 13/12/2022 Stefano Ghisolfi made the first repeat of Bombardino 9a+ at Arco.

On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.

Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.

Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first ascents from the Alps to Patagonia. By Bulgarian journalist Tanya...