476 News found

From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

Polish alpinists Gosia Jurewicz, Józek Soszyńsk have established Resurrection, a new mixed climb on the NE Face of Pointe de l’Androsace in the Mont Blanc massif.

Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Smooth Criminal (M9/WI7-/150m), a testing mixed climb established in the Floitental in Austria.

The report by Simon Messner who at the end of March with Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Goodbye Innsbrooklyn, a difficult mixed climb up the North Face of Schrammacher in the Valsertal, Austria.

From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.

The report by Courmayeur mountain guide Gianluca Marra who, with his colleague Niccolò Bruni, has established Goulotte Desperados, a new mixed climb on that climbs the Col Occidental de la Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif.

On Pizzo Badile in Italy Swiss alpinists Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach have made a winter ascent of the British route, first ascended in 1968 by Mike Kosterlitz and Dick Isherwood.

Daniel Ladurner introduces 'The Bird', a rarely repeated mixed climb in Langental / Vallunga, first ascended by Massimo Faletti and Giovanni Groaz in 2003. Initially called Gola del Pettirosso, this 'pearl of the Dolomites' was renamed by the first ascensionists in honour of Jim Bridwell.

The report by Swiss mountaineer Silvan Schüpbach who recently established two new mixed climbs in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn with Janluca Kostner and Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten with Michel Kipf and Tizian Tobler.

Juho Knuuttila reports about the first ascent of Entropi on the NW Face of Mt. Blokktind, carried out with Eivind Jacobsen on 04/03/2022. The stunning 1000m mixed climb has been described by the Finnish alpinist as 'one of the most beautiful winter lines I have seen in northern Norway.'

British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker have climbed Mad Vlad (350m M7 R, IX/8). This is likely to be a new route on the ENE Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif.

The report by Johannes Egger who with Simon Furggler, Alex Unterkalmsteiner and Manuel Luterotti established Der Name der Rose, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites, close to his famous Solo per un altro Hashtag.

On 09/02/2022 François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of Su Per Cignana on Becca Salé in Valtournenche, Italy, while on 10/02/2022 Cazzanelli and Perruquet made the first ascent of Impulso Geniale on Pointe Adolphe Rey in the Mont Blanc massif.

Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Thomas Senf have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Silverbacks on Ice (M8 WI5 160m)at Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland.

Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent of Cold Heart in Val Lasties, Sella Group, Dolomites, first ascended on 13 February 2022 with mountain guide Thomas Mair.