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Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
Tasio Martin & Marc Toralles climb Punta Guillem Aparicio in Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India
11/10/2022 - Alpinism
Tasio Martin & Marc Toralles climb Punta Guillem Aparicio in Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India
On 23 August 2022 Tasio Martin from the Basque country and Marc Toralles from Catalonia made the first ascent of Punta Guillem Aparicio (5700m) in the Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India via their Txoria Txori (740m, 7a+).
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump. The Eiger, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Petit Dru,...
Ryan Colley and his Swiss Alps Ski Traverse
Ryan Colley and his Swiss Alps Ski Traverse
A short summary and video of Ryan Colley and his Ski Traverse across the Alps in Switzerland. 580km over 26 days, carried out last spring.
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
02/08/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
01/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s east face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
25/07/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande east face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles have made the first ascent of the east face of Siula Grande in Peru, climbing the inhospitable face in a single push from 11 - 16 July via their Ànima de corall. Toralles has described the line as 'the hardest route we have...
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
23/06/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula Grande.
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
21/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
The video by Brette Harrington documenting the first ascent of Marc-Andrés Vision, a climb on Torre Egger in Patagonia imagined by Marc-André Leclerc and completed in 2020 by Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton.
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
16/06/2022 - Alpinism
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
British mountaineers Mark Thomas and Mike Turner have made the first ascent of Thunderstruck on the east face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska. The stunning 1200m big wall was established after 12 days of hard and bold climbing.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.
Riders on the Storm at Torres del Paine in Patagonia: the 2017 attempt of Brette Harrington, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Drew Smith
12/04/2022 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm at Torres del Paine in Patagonia: the 2017 attempt of Brette Harrington, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Drew Smith
The video of Brette Harrington, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Drew Smith in 2017 attempting to make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the world famous big wall on Torre Central in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha east face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
18/03/2022 - Alpinism
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties up to 5.11- and bivied two nights in between the...

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