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Adam Ondra repeats Bon Voyage, confirms E12 trad
17/02/2024 - Climbing
Adam Ondra repeats Bon Voyage, confirms E12 trad
On Wednesday 14 February Adam Ondra made the first repeat of 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The Czech climber needed 3 days of effort and has confirmed the grade of E12 (9a).
Goulotte Toxic Mushroom added to Mont Noir de Peutérey by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi
13/02/2024 - Alpinism
Goulotte Toxic Mushroom added to Mont Noir de Peutérey by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi
On the east face Mont Noir de Peutérey Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza and Michele Tixi established the mixed route 'Toxic Mushroom'.
IFSC introduces Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs) policy to protect athlete health
08/02/2024 - Competitions
IFSC introduces Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs) policy to protect athlete health
To protect the health of its athletes the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has introduced comprehensive regulations related to Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs). The new policy will take effect from 15 February 2024.
New mixed climb on Monte Taburlo in Italian Dolomites by Cassol, Da Canal, Vallata
24/01/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Monte Taburlo in Italian Dolomites by Cassol, Da Canal, Vallata
On Sunday 21 January 2024 Davide Cassol, Riccardo Da Canal and Luca Vallata climbed a probable new mixed climb in the Ampezzo Dolomites. The new route, which is called 'Gitanes bleu', is approximately 350 meters high, ascends the north face of Monte Taburlo and provides difficulties up to WI5 and...
Melloblocco 2024, registration online for the 20th legendary bouldering meet
23/01/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, registration online for the 20th legendary bouldering meet
Registration is open online for Melloblocco 2024, the world’s biggest bouldering and climbing meeting scheduled to take place from Wednesday 8 to Saturday 11 May in Italy's magical Val Masino and Val di Mello Nature Reserve.
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb on Castello di Vallesinella by Marco Cordin, Martino Piva
09/01/2024 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb on Castello di Vallesinella by Marco Cordin, Martino Piva
On 31/12/2023 Marco Cordin and Martino Piva made the first ascent of 'Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana', a new mixed climb on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites, Italy. Cordin reports.
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno
On 12/24/2024 Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon and Luca Vallata made the first ascent of ' Archi del Vento', a fascinating new mixed climb on the north face of the Naso del Monte Duranno (Carnic Prealps, Friulian Dolomites, Italy.
Video: Edu Marin climbing Valhalla, his 9a+ MP at Getu in China
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Video: Edu Marin climbing Valhalla, his 9a+ MP at Getu in China
The climbing film 'Valhalla, cielo de roca' featuring Edu Marin making the first ascent of his huge 9a+ multi-pitch sports climb through the Grand Arch at Getu in China
European Outdoor Group members vote to join Race To Zero
21/12/2023 - Gear
European Outdoor Group members vote to join Race To Zero
Members of the European Outdoor Group (EOG) have voted to make committing to a Race To Zero initiative by the end of 2024 a mandatory requirement of association membership. In a process that was open to all members, 88% of those who voted were in favour of the proposals. The...
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
07/12/2023 - Climbing
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
29/11/2023 - Alpinism
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
The Carrel hut on the Matterhorn will be moved to avoid rockfall. The new bivouac will be built a few meters from its current location and should be inaugurated in summer 2024. The cost of demolition and reconstruction is in the regione of two million euros.
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
27/11/2023 - Alpinism
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
On the north face of Agner (Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites) Nicola Bertoldo and Diego Dellai have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Ultima Perla (350m, 5+, M6, 50°).

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