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Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Speed, Boulder & Lead qualification results
17/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Speed, Boulder & Lead qualification results
The second half of the men’s and women’s Boulder & Lead qualifications opened day two at the Olympic Qualifier Series in Shanghai, China. Every competition round will be streamed live on Olympics.com. 
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
10/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
Friday 9 May, the third day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. Lots of sun, lots of smiles and bouldering until the batteries ran out.
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
08/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
Melloblocco 2024 day 1: the biggest bouldering meeting in the world officially begins today in Northern Italy, and Val Masino and Val di Mello have already welcomed the first climbers.
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.
Janja Garnbret & Toby Roberts win World Cup Gold in Wujiang
15/04/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret & Toby Roberts win World Cup Gold in Wujiang
The first stage of the Lead World Cup 2024 was won last weekend in Wujiang, China, by Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Great Britain’s Toby Roberts.
Emily Harrop and Thibault Anselmet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Sprint
10/04/2024 - Competitions
Emily Harrop and Thibault Anselmet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Sprint
The last stage of the 2024 Ski Mountaineering World Cup Sprint World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, on Monday and was won by Emily Harrop and Thibault Anselmet from France who also claimed the overall season title. The last competition of the season, the Mixed relay, takes place...
Emily Harrop, Rémi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Individual
08/04/2024 - Competitions
Emily Harrop, Rémi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Individual
The last stage of the 2024 Individual World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, on Sunday and was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret from France and Remi Bonnet from Swtizerland. The overall season title was won by Bonnet and Emily Harrop from France.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
27/03/2024 - Environment
La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
The Italian La Venta association reports about its first expedition to explore the Qanaf Cave and depths of the desert plateau of Jabal Samḥān in southern Oman.
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
26/03/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
Sébastien Berthe has repeated 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The route was repeated for the first time by Adam Ondra in February 2023, and Berthe's is now the third ascent. The Belgian climber, who in 2023 flashed the adjacent 'Le...
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
01/03/2024 - Climbing
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo makes third ascent of Siurana's Sleeping Lion
26/02/2024 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo makes third ascent of Siurana's Sleeping Lion
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has made the third ascent 'Sleeping Lion', the 9b at Siurana in Spain established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and repeated in January 2024 by Alexander Megos.
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
19/02/2024 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
Over a 18-day period from 24 January to 10 February 2024 'Riders on the Storm', one of the most famous big wall climbs in Patagonia located on the Central Tower in the Torres del Paine massif, was finally climbed free by Nico Favresse, Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Drew...
Watch Elias Iagnemma battle Burden of Dreams
18/02/2024 - Climbing
Watch Elias Iagnemma battle Burden of Dreams
Italian climber Elias Iagnemma attempting 'Burden of Dreams', the 9A boulder problem at Lappnor in Finland established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016.

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