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Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
07/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour of Andrzej Sokołowski.
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Glaciers in Switzerland are melting more than ever before
04/10/2022 - Environment
Glaciers in Switzerland are melting more than ever before
2022 was a disastrous year for Swiss glaciers: all ice melt records were smashed by the great dearth of snow in winter and continuous heatwaves in summer. More than 6 percent of the ice volume was lost, reports the Cryospheric Commission (CC) of the Swiss Academy of Sciences.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Sasha DiGiulian, Matilda Söderlund, Brette Harrington repeat Rayu, 8c Picos de Europa multipitch
27/09/2022 - Alpinism
Sasha DiGiulian, Matilda Söderlund, Brette Harrington repeat Rayu, 8c Picos de Europa multipitch
Sasha DiGiulian, Matilda Söderlund and Brette Harrington have made the second ascent and first female ascent of the 8c multipitch Rayu the south face of Peña Santa de Castilla (2596m) in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
26/09/2022 - Alpinism
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo winter ascent of the classic Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
20/09/2022 - Alpinism
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
Patrick Tirler from the South Tyrol, Italy, reports about the first ascent of 'Ak-Kalpak' on Little Asan in the Kara-Su Valley in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai, carried out this summer with Moritz Sigmund.
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
02/08/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
27/07/2022 - Alpinism
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower range in Pakistan has been repeated free by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher. Zangerl is the first woman to complete a free ascent of what is regarded as the hardest and most beautiful big wall free climb at altitude in...
Edu Marín makes second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
22/07/2022 - Alpinism
Edu Marín makes second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Climbing with his brother Álex and his father Francisco, Catalan climber Edu Marín has made the second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower range in Pakistan. Established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the Karakorum big wall...
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
13/07/2022 - Alpinism
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Basque mountaineers Eneko and Iker Pou, together with Peruvian mountaineer  Micher Quito, have made the first ascent of One Push on the SW Face of Pumahuacanca in Peru, describing the 1000m line as 'brutal' and 'the hardest high mountain route of our career.'
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.
Mimmi Kotka e Hannes Namberger queen and king of Cortina / La Sportiva Lavaredo Ultra Trail 2022
26/06/2022 - Trekking
Mimmi Kotka e Hannes Namberger queen and king of Cortina / La Sportiva Lavaredo Ultra Trail 2022
Sweden’s Mimmi Kotk and Germany's Hannes Namberger won the La Sportiva Lavaredo Ultra Trail by UTMB 2022. Namberger set a new race record and doubled his takings after winning last year, while Kotk dominated after placing third in 2021. The UltraDolomites competition was won by Matteo Anselmi from Italy and...