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Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
18/11/2022 - Interviews
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first ascents from the Alps to Patagonia. By Bulgarian journalist Tanya...
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
28/10/2022 - Alpinism
New big wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
Over a period of 65 days Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Angela Vanwiemeersch and Kelsey Watts explored the NW coast of Greenland where they established and repeated a series of new big wall climbs. Highlights of their by-fair-means expedition included the first ascent of Sea Barge Circus...
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump. The Eiger, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Petit Dru,...
Warren Harding's Outrageous First Ascents of The Nose and The Dawn Wall
20/09/2022 - Climbing
Warren Harding's Outrageous First Ascents of The Nose and The Dawn Wall
The video portrait of Warren Harding, a driving force in the development of big wall climbing during the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. The story is adapted from the award-winning feature documentary Valley Uprising by Reel Rock.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Free As Can Be. Mark Hudon, Jordan Cannon and the dream of Freerider on El Capitan
06/08/2022 - Climbing
Free As Can Be. Mark Hudon, Jordan Cannon and the dream of Freerider on El Capitan
The film Free as can be by Samuel Crossley, documenting American climber Mark Hudon's lifelong goal of free climbing El Capitan.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
27/07/2022 - Alpinism
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower range in Pakistan has been repeated free by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher. Zangerl is the first woman to complete a free ascent of what is regarded as the hardest and most beautiful big wall free climb at altitude in...
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
25/07/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles have made the first ascent of the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, climbing the inhospitable face in a single push from 11 - 16 July via their Ànima de corall. Toralles has described the line as 'the hardest route we have...
Edu Marín makes second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
22/07/2022 - Alpinism
Edu Marín makes second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Climbing with his brother Álex and his father Francisco, Catalan climber Edu Marín has made the second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower range in Pakistan. Established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the Karakorum big wall...
Alex Honnold, Cedar Wright and the 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso
19/07/2022 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, Cedar Wright and the 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso
Cedar Wright has released support footage of Alex Honnold's 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso (7b+/c, 500m) on El Toro, Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
16/06/2022 - Alpinism
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
British mountaineers Mark Thomas and Mike Turner have made the first ascent of Thunderstruck on the East Face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska. The stunning 1200m big wall was established after 12 days of hard and bold climbing.
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...

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