The news

9708
News in archive
Papert sends Schattenkoenig 8b
13/12/2004 - Climbing
Papert sends Schattenkoenig 8b
On 5 November Ines Papert redpointed Schattenkoenig 8b at Berchtesgaden, Germany.
McClure deep water solos 8b+
03/12/2004 - Climbing
McClure deep water solos 8b+
On 15/09/2004 Steve McClure made the first ascent of Ring of Fire, 8b+, Holy Grail Wall, Mana Island, Croatia, the hardest deep water solo in the world.
Ice meetings and competitions
02/12/2004 - Events
Ice meetings and competitions
Ice meeting for the 2004/2005 season in Arco, Italy, Argentière la Bessée (Fournel), France, st its annual ice-fall meeting:Kandersteg, Switzerland and Festiglace, Quebec, Canada
Daone ice structure works
01/12/2004 - Competitions
Daone ice structure works
Work is underway on the Ice Climbing Stadium for the international Ice Master in Valle di Daone, programmed for 25-29 January 2005
Banff 2004 winners
30/11/2004 - Events
Banff 2004 winners
The traditional Banff Mountain Festival, a week-long celebration of mountain films, books and photography held in Banff, came to a close on 7 November.
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
25/11/2004 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
On 29/11, Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Zaluski Jacek Jawien and Piotr Morawski head for Tibetto attempt the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m).
Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004
23/11/2004 - Competitions
Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004
Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter win the the ninth stage in Kranj, Slovenia and therefore climnch the World Cup Difficulty 2004
Daone Ice Meeting
18/11/2004 - Competitions
Daone Ice Meeting
From 25-29 January 2005 the Vth International Meeting Pareti di Cristallo will be held in Valle di Daone, Italy.
Usobiaga 8b+ on-sight, Rouhling 9a F.A.
17/11/2004 - Climbing
Usobiaga 8b+ on-sight, Rouhling 9a F.A.
Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted Millenium 8b+ at Misja Pec, while Fred Rouhling has made teh first ascent of Mandallaz Drive at d’Allonzier la Caille, Haute-Savoie
Cerro Torre East Face new route!
16/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre East Face new route!
On 13/11/2004 at 21.00 Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti reached the top of Cerro Torre via a new direct route up the East Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
Crespi and Eyer victorious in Brno!
15/11/2004 - Climbing
Crespi and Eyer victorious in Brno!
The eigth stage of the Difficulty World Cup 2004 was won last weekend by Flavio Crespi and Alexandra Eyer.
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
09/11/2004 - Climbing
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
At the start of October more than 500 climbers from all over the world gathered in Kalymnos for the second Kalymnos Rock Climbing Festival.
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
05/11/2004 - Climbing
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
In mid-October Jean-François Beaulieu from Canada pinkpointed an old aid project, La Zébrée at Mont-King, Val David, Québec, grading it 8b+
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
04/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
Last week the Italian Ragni di Lecco celebrated the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the emblem of Patagonian mountaineering, the West Face of Cerro Torre.
New UIAA directive
27/10/2004 - Alpinism
New UIAA directive
At the UIAA General Assembly in New Delhi, on 16 October 2004, there were important elections for the term of 2005-2008 for a new President, Board, Council and Commission members.
Orco Valley new routes
26/10/2004 - Climbing
Orco Valley new routes
At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell' Orco (Italy), Tatanka (270m, max 7c, 6c obbl.) and Tomawauk Dance (165m, max 7c, 7a obbl.).

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