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Michaela Kiersch sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
29/01/2023 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
American climber Michaela Kiersch has climbed her first 9a+, La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain. The 28-year-old is only the third woman to repeat this classic test after Margo Hayes in 2017 and Chaehyun Seo in 2022.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
26/01/2023 - Alpinism
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont Blanc (2008), Everest (2022) and Kilimanjaro (2022).
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
23/01/2023 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
The 2023 Ski Mountaineering World Cup took place in Andorra last weekend. The Individual race was won on Saturday by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Thibault Anselmet, while Gachet-Mollaret and Rémi Bonnet won the Vertical race on Sunday.
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
12,330 meters of altitude gain and a 138 km integral traverse, over a period of two days, solo, across the Queyras mountains from Vars to Villard. This, in short, is the ski mountaineering traverse carried out by French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines at the start of the new year.
Slabducation, the La Pedriza slab climbing movie by Talo Martin
20/01/2023 - Climbing
Slabducation, the La Pedriza slab climbing movie by Talo Martin
Watch Slabducation, the movie by Talo Martin featuring the likes of Mari Alarcón, Caroline Ciavaldini, James Pearson, Johnny Dawes, Sean Villanueva, Siebe Vanhee, Dani Andrada and Arman Martínez slab climbing at Pedriza in Spain.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
18/01/2023 - Alpinism
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
On Mt Somamunt in the tiny Antersasc valley above Longiarù / Campill in Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, first with Aaron Durogati then with Davide Prandini, made the first ascent of the mixed climb Felsenkeller'.
Mari Salvesen frees Tazlov, 8b trad crack in Norway
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Mari Salvesen frees Tazlov, 8b trad crack in Norway
Watch the video of Mari Augusta Salvesen making the first ascent of the trad climb Tazlov, a long term project of hers in Norway now graded 8b.
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
On 7 January 2023 Swiss climber Jonas Schild has repeated 'Le Voyage', the E10 at Annot first ascended by James Pearson in 2017 and reputed to be the most difficult trad climb France.
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
13/01/2023 - Alpinism
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
The docufilm The High Life that tells the story of Sarah Cartier and her young family, the hut wardens of Refuge de la Charpoua below Les Drus and Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif.
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.

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