1903 News found

Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.

On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen

On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.

Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.

From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...

Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...

Following a thorough evaluation by LA28, the IPC Governing Board approved the Organising Committee’s proposal to include Para climbing into the 2028 Paralympic Games in Los Angeles, USA.

Budapest OQS has confirmed who will go to the Olympic Games this summer: Yafei Zhou, Aleksandra Kalucka, Rajiah Sallsabillah, Capucine Viglione, Manon Lebon, Leslie Adriana Romero Perez, Beatrice Colli and Wu Peng, Veddriq Leonardo, Amir Maimuratov, Zach Hammer, Reza Alipour Shenazandifard, Yaroslav Tkach, Shin Euncheo.

Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.

Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.

The uncut climbing video of Stefano Ghisolfi making the first ascent of 'Excalibur' (9b+) close to Arco, Italy. Graded 9b+, this checks in as one of the hardest sport climbs in the world

British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.