371 News found

British mountaineer Livingstone reports about his January ascent with Rob Smith of the North-West face of Aiguille du Blaitiere (3522m) in the Mont Blanc massif. In all likelihood the second half of their climb shares the line ascended by Joe Brown and Don Whillans in summer 1954.

On 14 and 15 of April 2023 Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko made the first ascent of Troll Toll (600m, M5) on the ENE Face of Mount Morrison in California, USA. Located in the Sherwin Range of the Sierra Nevada, this mountain is also known as the 'Eiger of...

On 17 March 2023 Stefano Ragazzo made a solo ascent of 'Moulin Rouge' on Roda de Vael (2806m) in the Rosengarten group of the Dolomites, Italy. After the first winter ascent in 2005 by Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori, this is likely to be the first winter solo of this...

Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.

The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...

From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif.

Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer...

Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

After three years of effort, on 30 December 2022 Alviero Garau and Davide Lagomarsino completed the first ascent of 'Crysalis by Grenke' (550m, 7a+ max, 6a+ obligatory) up the SE Face of Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia.

French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).

Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...

In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour of Andrzej Sokołowski.

On 23 August 2022 Tasio Martin from the Basque country and Marc Toralles from Catalonia made the first ascent of Punta Guillem Aparicio (5700m) in the Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India via their Txoria Txori (740m, 7a+).

The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...

Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles have made the first ascent of the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, climbing the inhospitable face in a single push from 11 - 16 July via their Ànima de corall. Toralles has described the line as 'the hardest route we have...

Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.