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Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
19/06/2024 - Climbing
Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
On Monday 17 June a team of climbers hung a banner on El Capitan in Yosemite reading 'Stop the Genocide', to raise awareness of the conflict and put pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza.
Katherine Choong sends La Fiesta de Los Metallos, 8b mp in the Verdon
14/06/2024 - Climbing
Katherine Choong sends La Fiesta de Los Metallos, 8b mp in the Verdon
Last Monday Swiss climber Katherine Choong repeated 'La Fiesta de Los Metallos', the 200m 8b located in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Shauna Coxsey is The Boss (8B+) of Yarncliffe
01/05/2024 - Boulder
Shauna Coxsey is The Boss (8B+) of Yarncliffe
At Yarncliffe in England Shauna Coxsey has repeated 'The Boss', an 8B+ boulder problem first climbed by her husband Ned Feehally in 2020.
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
27/04/2024 - Climbing
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
20 years ago today, on April 28, 2004, the great French climber and mountaineer Patrick Berhault died while attempting to complete the 82 4000ers of the Alps in 82 days. The tribute by his friend Alessandro Grillo.
The harmonious chaos of Melloblocco 2024
03/04/2024 - Events
The harmonious chaos of Melloblocco 2024
A preliminary preview of Melloblocco, the largest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world which will take place in Italy's Val di Mello - Val Masino from 8 to 11 May 2024. Over 1000 climbers have already registered for the event, while Matteo de Zaiacomo, Andrea Pavan, Marco Bufalo and...
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
Luca Bana gets A Present for the Future (9a+) in Italy
22/03/2024 - Climbing
Luca Bana gets A Present for the Future (9a+) in Italy
On 14 March 2024 the Italian climber Luca Bana repeated 'A Present for the Future', a 9a+ in the G-rota sector close to the historic crag Madonna della Rota crag in Valle dell'Opol (Brescia), freed in 2010 by Adam Ondra.
On Pointe de Nantillons (Mont Blanc massif) Alain Andrés, Garo Azkue climb Sorterriko Koblak
13/03/2024 - Alpinism
On Pointe de Nantillons (Mont Blanc massif) Alain Andrés, Garo Azkue climb Sorterriko Koblak
On 06/02/2024 Spanish mountaineers Alain Andrés and Garo Azkue made the first ascent of 'Sorterriko Koblak' on Pointe de Nantillons in the Envers des Aiguilles of the Mont Blanc massif. This 400m mixed climb largely follows the rarely climbed summer rock route Dièdre Central, established in 1977 Philippe Grenier, Robert...
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria.
New ice climbs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
06/03/2024 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
Sarah Haase reports about three possible new ice climbs located at the entrance to Val Travenanzes in the Dolomites, ascended on 6 February 2024 with Diana Calabuig and Santiago Padros.
Shauna Coxsey boulders 8B+ in La Pedriza, Spain
05/03/2024 - Climbing
Shauna Coxsey boulders 8B+ in La Pedriza, Spain
At La Pedriza in Spain, British rock climber Shauna Coxsey climbed 'Fotofobia Sit' (8B+/V14+).
Gabriele Moroni sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
02/03/2024 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
Italian climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated 'La Rambla', the benchmark 9a+ located at Siurana in Spain.