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News in archive
Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
22/01/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
At Siurana in Spain Jacopo Larcher from Italy has flashed the climb Kale Borroka 8b+. His story.
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Klemen Becan, 8c on-sight at Oliana and Archidona
20/01/2012 - Environment
Klemen Becan, 8c on-sight at Oliana and Archidona
Slovenian climber Klemen Becan has on-sighted two 8c's, Fish Eye at Oliana and Kaliste at Archidona, Spain. The report by Urban Golob.
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
19/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
A short interview with Alex Honnold after his first ascent of the boulder Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Sam Elias and the mixed climbing in Vail
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Sam Elias and the mixed climbing in Vail
Video of American climber on Red Bull and Vodka at Vail, Colorado, USA.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Dent du Jetoula, first ski descent by Capozzi and Bigio
Dent du Jetoula, first ski descent by Capozzi and Bigio
On 16/01/2012 Davide Capozzi and Stefano Bigio carried out the first ski and snowboard descent of the SE Ridge of the Dent du Jetoula (Mont Blanc range). Details of the ascent by Capozzi.
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
17/01/2012 - Alpinism
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).
Verhoeven and Saurwein, more boulders at the Buttermilks, Bishop
17/01/2012 - Climbing
Verhoeven and Saurwein, more boulders at the Buttermilks, Bishop
Another video of Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein bouldering at the Buttermilks, Bishop, USA, where they climbed Evilution Direct and Saigon direct.
Alex Honnold, new super highball at Bishop
16/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, new super highball at Bishop
At the Buttermilks in Bishop (USA) Alex Honnold has freed Too Big to Flail, a super highball up the immense Luminance Block.
Kazikli Canyon, a sport climbing paradise in the Aladaglar, Turkey
16/01/2012 - Climbing
Kazikli Canyon, a sport climbing paradise in the Aladaglar, Turkey
Recep Ince introduces the Turkish delights of rock climbing at the Kazikli Canyon in the Ala Daglar region.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov win in Korea
15/01/2012 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov win in Korea
The first of five stages of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2012 took place in Cheongsong (Korea) on 14 and 15 January. The Lead event was won by Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov, while the Speed discipline went to the Russians Viktoria Shabalina and Ivan Spitsyn.
Enzo Oddo, the video of La Rambla at Siurana
15/01/2012 - Climbing
Enzo Oddo, the video of La Rambla at Siurana
The video of Enzo Oddo climbing La Rambla 9a+ at Siurana, Spain.
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.

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