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Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and his first new route since 1997.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
25/07/2023 - Alpinism
Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites, Italy) Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch Back in Black.
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
Celebrations in Crete as Paligremnos - Plakias declared monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage
22/05/2023 - Climbing
Celebrations in Crete as Paligremnos - Plakias declared monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage
The cliff Paligremnos - Plakias on the island of Crete in Greece has been declared a monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage. A recent Greek court order now prohibits the construction of a tourist resort above the crag which was at risk of closure. The rock and beach below are...
Mick Fowler and Chris Harle climb Devil’s Castle sea stack in Ireland
16/05/2023 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Chris Harle climb Devil’s Castle sea stack in Ireland
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Chris Harle have made the first ascent of the Devil’s Castle sea stack in Ireland.
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
05/04/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world, viewed through the eyes of the historic promoters Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti. Over 2000 climbers have already registered for the 16th edition which will be held in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy from 4 to...
Blind climber Jesse Dufton makes first ascent of new route in Morocco
20/03/2023 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton makes first ascent of new route in Morocco
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, together with Molly Thompson and Paul Donnithorne, has the first ascent of the 100m multi-pitch rock climb 'Eye Disappear' at Heavy Rock in the Anti-Atlas mountains of Morocco
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal
01/02/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal
French climber Sébastien Bouin has sent a flurry of hard routes in Portugal. At the seacliff crag Meio Mango at Cabo Espichel the 29-year-old established Rei de Bering at 9a+/b the hardest sport climb in the country.
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
04/01/2023 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
Brette Harrington has made a rare free ascent of Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo, 270m) on Punta Giradili in Sardinia, Italy.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
24/12/2022 - Alpinism
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
On 18/12/2022 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent of Vortex X,10, a testing new winter climb on Cul Mor in NW Scotland
Watch Robbie Philips, Alex Moore climb Longhope Direct on Isle of Hoy, Scotland
04/12/2022 - Climbing
Watch Robbie Philips, Alex Moore climb Longhope Direct on Isle of Hoy, Scotland
A 50-minute film featuring Robbie Phillips and Alex Moore as they attempt to climb what has been defined as the world's hardest sea cliff climb, 'The Longhope Direct' (E10) on St John's Head, Hoy, Orkney, Scotland.

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