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Sorato Anraku wins Boulder World Cup 2023 and final stage in Innsbruck
18/06/2023 - Competitions
Sorato Anraku wins Boulder World Cup 2023 and final stage in Innsbruck
The sixth and final Boulder World Cup concluded in Innsbruck, Austria on Friday 16 June and was won by Sorato Anraku from Japan ahead of teammate Meichi Narasaki and Sam Avezou of France. Sorato was also crowned overall Boulder World Cup winner, Dohyun Lee won silver, Tomoa Narasaki bronze.
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day
08/12/2022 - Climbing
Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day
On Tuesday 6 December 2022 at Cresciano in Switzerland William Bosi from Scotland flashed The Dagger 8B+ and sent Dreamtime 8C on his 4th attempt.
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
22/11/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll which was awarded a Piolets d'Or 2022: the Moonwalk Traverse, ie the solo traverse from south to north of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, carried out by the Belgian mountaineer from 5 - 10 February 2021.
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
07/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour of Andrzej Sokołowski.
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Janja Garnbret wins 50th World Cup Medal at Villars Climbing World Cup
03/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret wins 50th World Cup Medal at Villars Climbing World Cup
The second stage of the 2022 Lead World Cup was won last night in Villars, Switzerland, by Janja Garnbret and Homma Taisei. This is the Slovenian’s 50th World Cup medal.
Yannick Flohé fires Brixen Boulder World Cup 2022
13/06/2022 - Competitions
Yannick Flohé fires Brixen Boulder World Cup 2022
Yannick Flohé claimed his first World Cup podium last night after winning the fifth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022 at Brixen, Italy. The German beat Britain’s Maximillian Milne and Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki.
Angie Scarth-Johnson repeats Víctimas Pérez 9a at Margalef
02/06/2022 - Climbing
Angie Scarth-Johnson repeats Víctimas Pérez 9a at Margalef
Australian rock climber Angie Scarth-Johnson has climbed Víctimas Pérez 9a at Margalef, Spain
Jonas Schild repeats Gondo Crack, 8c trad crack at Cippo in Switzerland
03/05/2022 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Gondo Crack, 8c trad crack at Cippo in Switzerland
Swiss climber Jonas Schild reports about his recent repeat of Gondo Crack, the 8c crack climb at Cippo in Switzerland freed by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher in 2017. Schild placed all gear during his ascent
Nolwen Berthier superbe on Super Crackinette 9a+
20/04/2022 - Climbing
Nolwen Berthier superbe on Super Crackinette 9a+
28-year-old Nolwen Berthier has climbed her first 9a+, Super Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
Mari Salvesen flashes Belly Full of Bad Berries, notorious offwidth at Indian Creek, USA
13/04/2022 - Climbing
Mari Salvesen flashes Belly Full of Bad Berries, notorious offwidth at Indian Creek, USA
A few days ago 32-year-old Mari Salvesen of Norway flashed the notorious Belly Full of Bad Berries in Indian Creek, USA, becoming only the second person to do so after Pete Whittaker in 2011. Salvesen reports about her ascent which has been described as 'a massively significant ascent in offwidth climbing,...

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