3419 News found

In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...

Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont Blanc (2008), Everest (2022) and Kilimanjaro (2022).

The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.

12,330 meters of altitude gain and a 138 km integral traverse, over a period of two days, solo, across the Queyras mountains from Vars to Villard. This, in short, is the ski mountaineering traverse carried out by French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines at the start of the new year.

Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.

Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...

On 7 January 2023 Swiss climber Jonas Schild has repeated 'Le Voyage', the E10 at Annot first ascended by James Pearson in 2017 and reputed to be the most difficult trad climb France.

On Thursday 12/01/2023 Greg Boswell made the first ascent of 'Bring da ruckus' at Lochnagar. Graded XII 13, this 2-pitch outing is one of the hardest mixed climbs in Scotland.

Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.

From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through this remote region. Lehner provides the details.

At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports

From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...

German climber Moritz Welt has made the first ascent of a former Markus Bock project at Schiefer Tod in the Frankenjura, calling it Lazarus and grading it 9a+.

At Kochel am See in Germany Martina Demmel has repeated Heim nach Afrika (9a) and Chaos in Palumbia (8c+) at Atlantiswand.

In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.