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The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
28/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...
Innsbruck Paraclimbing World Cup 2024 results
26/06/2024 - Competitions
Innsbruck Paraclimbing World Cup 2024 results
The second stop of the 2024 IFSC Para Climbing World Cup series came to a close at the Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, Austria as the medals were decided on a full night of Lead climbing.
Anna Ferrino, CEO of Ferrino, awarded the Compasso d'Oro Career Prize
21/06/2024 - Events
Anna Ferrino, CEO of Ferrino, awarded the Compasso d'Oro Career Prize
Anna Ferrino, CEO of the Italian outdoor equipment company Ferrino, has been awarded the prestigious Compasso d'Oro Career Prize. The award ceremony was held on 20 June 2024 at the ADI Design Museum in Milan.
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was established DTS style and is dedicated to his late friend...
Katherine Choong sends La Fiesta de Los Metallos, 8b mp in the Verdon
14/06/2024 - Climbing
Katherine Choong sends La Fiesta de Los Metallos, 8b mp in the Verdon
Last Monday Swiss climber Katherine Choong repeated 'La Fiesta de Los Metallos', the 200m 8b located in the Verdon Gorge, France.
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
12/06/2024 - Climbing
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up the famous granite monolith after 'Digital Crack' and 'Arête Cosmiques',...
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Video: Patrick Edlinger / Free for life
07/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: Patrick Edlinger / Free for life
The video portrait of the French climber Patrick Edlinger, one of the first global icons of sport climbing.
American climber Charlie Barrett given life sentence for rape
06/06/2024 - Climbing
American climber Charlie Barrett given life sentence for rape
Prominent American rock climber Charlie Barrett has been sentenced to life in prison for sexual assault.
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was established in December 2018 by Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski.

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