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Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Dai Koyamada frees Okuro, 8C boulder at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
17/10/2023 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada frees Okuro, 8C boulder at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
47-year-old Japanese climber Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Okuro, an 8C boulder problem at Gifu in Japan.
Climbing wall crowdfunding campaign for neuromuscular affected children at Turin's Children’s Hospital
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Climbing wall crowdfunding campaign for neuromuscular affected children at Turin's Children’s Hospital
A group of Italian doctors and engineers has launched a Crowdfunding campaign for a climbing wall for neuromuscular affected children
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Juan Señoret from Chile and Christophe 'Tof' Henry from France died on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile. Both were undisputed reference points for mountaineering and extreme skiing, and the loss of these two will be felt for years.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
On 21 September 2023 French alpinists Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy and Jules Socié skied the awe-inspiring Whillans-Cochrane ramp on Aguja Poincenot in the Fitz Roy massif of Patagonia. This is only the second ski descent, after the first carried out by the late Andreas Fransson in 2012. On 22...
Grand Etret glacier in Valle d'Aosta, Italy, loses another two hectares of surface area in summer 2023
03/10/2023 - Environment
Grand Etret glacier in Valle d'Aosta, Italy, loses another two hectares of surface area in summer 2023
Measurements carried out by the Gran Paradiso park rangers confirm a loss of surface area equivalent to three football fields.
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
29/09/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
The South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl has made the solo first ascent of 'Identität' solo, a new route up the west face of the Mittlerer Zwölfer / Croda Antonio Berti in the Sexten and Auronzo Dolomites.
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
27/09/2023 - Interviews
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
Interview with Jakob Schubert after the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger in Norway last week. The 32-year-old Austrian has now called the climb B.I.G. and suggested the grade 9c. This is currently the third route in the world with this grade, after Silence at Flatanger and DNA in...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Cortina d'Ampezzo: the perfect base for hikes in the Dolomites
22/09/2023 - Trekking
Cortina d'Ampezzo: the perfect base for hikes in the Dolomites
In the heart of the majestic Dolomites, Cortina d'Ampezzo stands out as an ideal location walking and hiking. Together with IAT Cortina d'Ampezzo and Cortina Mountain Guide Enrico Maioni, here are three fascinating trails to explore the area: The two parks, the Three Lakes (Lake Pianòzes, Lake Fedèra and Lake...
Andrea Lanfri receives Cala Cimenti Award 2023
19/09/2023 - Events
Andrea Lanfri receives Cala Cimenti Award 2023
At the Frasassi Climbing Festival the 2023 Cala Cimenti Award was handed to Italian mountaineer Andrea Lanfri by Erika Siffredi. 'For his life story, his Strength, his Courage, his commitment Over All Limits. Living testimony of Cala and his values.'
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/09/2023 - Alpinism
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
In August 2023 the virgin NW Face of Ranrapalca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru was been climbed alpine style by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito via their 'Ya Pe' Cholo' (6b/80°/1,200m).