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Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
19/05/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
European mountaineers Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli have successfully climbed a new route on Meru South (6600m) in India. The new route on the mountain's east face was climbed alpine style and is called Goldfish (800m, M6+ A1).
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy
12/05/2023 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy
On 4 May 2023 in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla and Matteo Sella made the first free ascent of 'E ti vengo a cercare'. In 1980 Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin established all but the last pitch and the route lay remained unfinished until now.
Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92
08/05/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92
Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his groundbreaking first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, has died aged 92.
Citadel NW Face climbed in Kichatna Spires of Alaska by Joseph Hobby, Zach Lovell
01/05/2023 - Alpinism
Citadel NW Face climbed in Kichatna Spires of Alaska by Joseph Hobby, Zach Lovell
Climbing in the Kichatna Spires of Alaska, on 19 April 2023 American Mountain Guides Joseph Hobby (34) and Zach Lovell (30) made what is believed to be the first ascent of the stunning NW Face of Citadel via their 'Borealis Face' (2,000ft, 85° ice/snow). A day later they established 'Superfly...
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
28/04/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
British mountaineer Livingstone reports about his January ascent with Rob Smith of the North-West face of Aiguille du Blaitiere (3522m) in the Mont Blanc massif. In all likelihood the second half of their climb shares the line ascended by Joe Brown and Don Whillans in summer 1954.
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
27/04/2023 - Alpinism
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai and Marco Toldo belonging to the Roccia 4 Gatti di Arsiero mountaineering club have climbed the enormous icefall located inside the Brezno pod Velbom cave, at an altitude of 2050m on the Slovenian side of Monte Canin. Dellai reports of the repeat of what is considered...
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
26/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
Mission complete on Monte Rosa: the Italian military corp Alpini won the XXIII edition of the Mezzalama Trophy. Matteo Eydallin, Robert Antonioli and Davide Magnini dominated the men's event, while Giulia Murada, Giulia Compagnoni and Alba De Silvestro clinched a historic gold medal in the women's competition. Eydallin and Nicolini...
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar
18/04/2023 - Alpinism
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar
The report by Slovenian alpinist Gašper Pintar who on 28 and 29 March 2023 completed a remarkable solo climb of the famous Čop Pillar on the North Face of Triglav in Slovenia. Although technically no longer in the calendar winter, the ascent was carried out in conditions akin to the...
Watch Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll climbing in Patagonia
16/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll climbing in Patagonia
The video of Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll making first free ascents in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia.
Seb Berthe flashes Le Voyage at Annot in France
12/04/2023 - Interviews
Seb Berthe flashes Le Voyage at Annot in France
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has managed to flash 'Le Voyage' (8b+/E10) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, it is considered one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
08/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
The documentary of the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, completed on 16 January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.
Winter Trilogy 2022: watch Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb the Grandes Jorasses, Eiger, Matterhorn
05/04/2023 - Alpinism
Winter Trilogy 2022: watch Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb the Grandes Jorasses, Eiger, Matterhorn
The video of French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines climbing the famous three north faces of the Alps, the Grandes Jorasses, the Eiger and the Matterhorn in winter 2022.
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
05/04/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world, viewed through the eyes of the historic promoters Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti. Over 2000 climbers have already registered for the 16th edition which will be held in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy from 4 to...
Stefano Ragazzo completes winter solo of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand, Dolomites
03/04/2023 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo completes winter solo of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand, Dolomites
On 17 March 2023 Stefano Ragazzo made a solo ascent of 'Moulin Rouge' on Roda de Vael (2806m) in the Rosengarten group of the Dolomites, Italy. After the first winter ascent in 2005 by Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori, this is likely to be the first winter solo of this...

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