3093 News found

Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.

The Teramo section of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) has announced it has changed the name of Via Ferrata Brizio to Via Ferrata dei Ginepri. The decision derives from historical events linked to the application of the racial laws during Italy's fascist period.

The video of the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m), established on the north face of Grytetippen on Senja Island in Norway by Fay Manners and Freja Shannon in March 2023.

On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.

The video of the first repeat of 'Cœur de Géant' on Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif carried out by French alpinists Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert and Kilian Moni on 17/06/2023

On 17/06/2023 the young French mountaineers Mathis Garayt (19), Arthur Poindefert (19), Kilian Moni (20) made the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on the NW Face of Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif. The 580m mixed climb is graded 580m, ED, M6+/7, WI 4+, 5c (5.10a) and...

Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.

Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.

The Executive Board of the IFSC has approved to start a process for the reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes, starting from 2024. The suspension of the Climbing Federation of Russia and Belarus Alpine Federation remains in place.

The video 'A New Way Up' directed by Jake Holland, featuring Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing above the Hunza Valley in Pakistan's Karakorum. Using this groundbreaking paralpinism approach the pair made the first ascent of the Gulmit Tower (5801m) in July 2022.

From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.

In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.

Italian climber Federica Mingolla has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb in the Gola di Gorropu gorge in Sardinia, established ground-up between 1998 and 1999 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.

On 27 May 2023 Michael Arnold, Vivian Bruchez and Tom Lafaille skied the SW Face of Dürrenhorn in the Mischabel range of the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. The 700m line was skied with one abseil and is called GoldenEye.

During its annual national assembly, the Italian Mountaineering Club removed the name of Benito Mussolini from the register of its honorary members.

Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.