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Repentance Super, the most coveted ice climb in Cogne
28/02/2023 - Alpinism
Repentance Super, the most coveted ice climb in Cogne
The story of the first ascent of Repentance Super, established in Cogne in Italy’s Aosta Valley in 1989 by Fulvio Conta, François Damilano and Giancarlo Grassi. One of the most famous icefalls in Europe.
Solenne Piret, impossible dreams do come true
26/02/2023 - Interviews
Solenne Piret, impossible dreams do come true
Solenne Piret, born without her right forearm, is one of the strongest paraclimbers. With two world championship titles and boulder problems up to 7B to her name, she lives her life chasing dreams that she now knows she can turn into reality. Our interview.
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
15/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
On 31 January 2023 Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina and Giovanni Ravizza established two 'amazing' mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (La Thuile, Valle d'Aosta): 'Tutte le Guide del Presidente' and 'Sento puzza di fuoco'.
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
09/02/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
British rock climber James Pearson has climbed his long-standing trad project in Annot, France. 'Bon Voyage' shares the same start as Pearson's 2017 'Le Voyage' (E10), and although no grade has been put forward yet, it promises to be up there among some of the hardest trad climbs in the...
Ryuichi Murai repeats Sleepwalker 8C+ at Red Rocks, USA
08/02/2023 - Climbing
Ryuichi Murai repeats Sleepwalker 8C+ at Red Rocks, USA
Japanese rock climber Ryuichi Murai has repeated Sleepwalker, the 8C+ boulder problem at Red Rocks, USA, first ascended by Jimmy Webb in 2018.
Paraclimber Solenne Piret leads ice climb at Ceillac, France
07/02/2023 - Alpinism
Paraclimber Solenne Piret leads ice climb at Ceillac, France
French paraclimber Solenne Piret has led her first icefall at Ceillac in France. Despite being born without her right forearm, the 30-year-old continues to push her boundaries in all forms of climbing.
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini,  Francesco Ratti
06/02/2023 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Francesco Ratti
On 31/01/2023 the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of 'Wake Up' (425m, 7a/A2).
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer...
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
31/01/2023 - Climbing
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
On 27/01/2023 Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe repeated La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
23/01/2023 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
The 2023 Ski Mountaineering World Cup took place in Andorra last weekend. The Individual race was won on Saturday by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Thibault Anselmet, while Gachet-Mollaret and Rémi Bonnet won the Vertical race on Sunday.

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