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New Rosengarten Rotwand climb by Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster, Martin Sieberer
09/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Rosengarten Rotwand climb by Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster, Martin Sieberer
Simon Messner reports about his new climb 'Männer die auf Wände starren’ on Rotwand / Roda di Vael in the Rosengarten group of the Dolomites, Italy, first ascended with Philipp Prünster and Martin Sieberer.
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
03/08/2022 - Alpinism
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto have made the first ascent of ‘Su e giù' on Monte La Banca (2680m) close to the San Pellegrino Pass in the Dolomites, Italy. The new rock climb in the Marmolada group is dedicated to Davide Miotti.
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
01/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
20/07/2022 - Alpinism
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
On Tuesday 19 July 2022 Italian mountaineers Pietro Picco and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) without supplementary oxygen. This is Camandona's twelfth eightthousander without O2.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
17/07/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
15/07/2022 - Alpinism
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer have made the first ascent of 'Steh auf Gladiator' on Kolosseum on the SW Face of Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria. The 260m route takes an independent line to the right of 'Alte Telfer', past difficulties up to VII+, and was freed on 18/06/2022. Zörer...
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
30/06/2022 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
British rock climber James Pearson has made a swift repeat of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark first ascended by Neil Gresham in 2021. After making a bold 'flash' attempt, Pearson worked the route ground-up before repeating one of Britain’s hardest trad climbs in cold, wet conditions.
Anna Hazlett makes first female ascent of Walk of Life E9 in UK
21/06/2022 - Climbing
Anna Hazlett makes first female ascent of Walk of Life E9 in UK
America's Anna Hazlett, aka. Anna Hazelnutt, has made the first female ascent of The Walk of Life, an extremely bold E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, UK.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Longhope Direct in Scotland repeated by Robbie Philips, Alex Moore
10/06/2022 - Climbing
Longhope Direct in Scotland repeated by Robbie Philips, Alex Moore
The Long Hope Direct, an E10 7a multipitch trad climb at St John's Head on the Isle of Hoy in Orkney, has been repeated by Robbie Phillips and Alex Moore
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
31/05/2022 - Climbing
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
Last October in Val di Tacca in Italy’s Tuscan-Emilian Apennine National Park Michele Caminati made the first ascent of Space Invaders, a new trad climb graded E7 6c. The report and video of the 37-year-old climber from Parma.
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
26/05/2022 - Interviews
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
24/05/2022 - Climbing
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
The short film 'The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing' by American filmmaker Keith Ladzinski that explores the history of sport climbing in the Verdon Gorge in France through the eyes of François Guillot, Bruno Clément, Alan Carne, Matt Segal, Emily Harrington, Jonathan Siegrist.