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New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video
25/11/2022 - Alpinism
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video
Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia received the 2022 Piolets d'Or for the first ascent of the NW Face of Saraghrar Northwest in Pakistan.
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
18/11/2022 - Interviews
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first ascents from the Alps to Patagonia. By Bulgarian journalist Tanya...
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
17/11/2022 - Alpinism
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach reports.
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
02/11/2022 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
On Monday 31 October 2022 William Bosi from Scotland made the third ascent of Alphane at Chironico in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. Established by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022, it was repeated by Aidan Roberts about a fortnight ago.
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
01/11/2022 - Climbing
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
Maurizio Oviglia recently rebolted one of Sardinia's iconic top-end sport climbs, Le lion de Panshir in the Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone and exchanged a few words with the first ascensionist, French ace Yann Guesquiers.
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
28/10/2022 - Alpinism
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
Over a period of 65 days Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Angela Vanwiemeersch and Kelsey Watts explored the NW coast of Greenland where they established and repeated a series of new big wall climbs. Highlights of their by-fair-means expedition included the first ascent of Sea Barge Circus...
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...
New mixed climb on Central Breithorn by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
23/10/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Central Breithorn by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
On 13/10/2022 François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Essere o non essere', a new mixed climb up the north face of Central Breithorn.
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Tasio Martin & Marc Toralles climb Punta Guillem Aparicio in Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India
11/10/2022 - Alpinism
Tasio Martin & Marc Toralles climb Punta Guillem Aparicio in Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India
On 23 August 2022 Tasio Martin from the Basque country and Marc Toralles from Catalonia made the first ascent of Punta Guillem Aparicio (5700m) in the Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India via their Txoria Txori (740m, 7a+).
Roger Schäli establishes Tierra del Fuego rope-solo on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland
05/10/2022 - Alpinism
Roger Schäli establishes Tierra del Fuego rope-solo on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland
44-year-old Roger Schäli has completed the first ascent, ground-up and rope-solo, of Tierra del Fuego on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.