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Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
25/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel climbed 30 fourthousanders during the first 10 days of their XPeaks project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps within 72 days.
Via Ferrata at Cortina, Dolomites / June 2024 conditions
24/06/2024 - Alpinism
Via Ferrata at Cortina, Dolomites / June 2024 conditions
The Cortina mountain Guides provide information on the current situation of the via ferratas around Cortina d'Ampezzo (Dolomites). Given the snow up in the mountains, many of the via ferratas are still closed.
Anna Ferrino, CEO of Ferrino, awarded the Compasso d'Oro Career Prize
21/06/2024 - Events
Anna Ferrino, CEO of Ferrino, awarded the Compasso d'Oro Career Prize
Anna Ferrino, CEO of the Italian outdoor equipment company Ferrino, has been awarded the prestigious Compasso d'Oro Career Prize. The award ceremony was held on 20 June 2024 at the ADI Design Museum in Milan.
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was established DTS style and is dedicated to his late friend...
Watch Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Ribeyre complete their Mer de Glace Ultra Traverse
20/06/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Ribeyre complete their Mer de Glace Ultra Traverse
The video documenting the circumnavigation of the Mer de Glace in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out over a period of 9 days in July 2022 by French alpinists Fred Degoulet and Benji Ribeyre.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
11/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
With their ascent of Aletschhorn earlier today, Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel have embarked on their project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps. The pair will travel from one mountain to the next on foot, skis or by paraglider and hope to complete...
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.