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On Aiguille des Pèlerins Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer establish La Croisade
29/03/2023 - Alpinism
On Aiguille des Pèlerins Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer establish La Croisade
Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of 'La Croisade', a mixed climb that after sharing the start of 'Beyond Good and Evil' and 'Les Flammes de l’enfer', breaches the obvious roof on the north face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) in the Mont Blanc massif. Welfringer...
Will Bosi attempts Burden of Dreams and streams progress live on Instagram
16/03/2023 - Climbing
Will Bosi attempts Burden of Dreams and streams progress live on Instagram
Will Bosi is currently in Finland attempting Burden of Dreams (9A), the hardest boulder problem in the world established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016. The Scottish climber is streaming his progress live on Instagram.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
02/03/2023 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to breach the mountain's east face. Schenk, who in 2016 established...
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret
From 8 - 9 February 2023 Antar Machado and Cristobal Señoret have made the first ascent of 'La Chilenita' (1,200m 5.11+ A0) on Cerro El Monstruo, Valle Cochamo, Patagonia, Chile.
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
09/02/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
British rock climber James Pearson has climbed his long-standing trad project in Annot, France. 'Bon Voyage' shares the same start as Pearson's 2017 'Le Voyage' (E10), and although no grade has been put forward yet, it promises to be up there among some of the hardest trad climbs in the...
Stefano Ghisolfi crowned king of Arco with Excalibur 9b+
06/02/2023 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi crowned king of Arco with Excalibur 9b+
On Friday 3 February 2023 Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent of Excalibur at Drena close to Arco. Graded 9b+, it is now one of the hardest sport climbs in Italy.
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer...
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
On 7 January 2023 Swiss climber Jonas Schild has repeated 'Le Voyage', the E10 at Annot first ascended by James Pearson in 2017 and reputed to be the most difficult trad climb France.
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...