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First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
24/07/2024 - Climbing
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.
ReBolting- maintaining climbs in Switzerland
21/07/2024 - Climbing
ReBolting- maintaining climbs in Switzerland
The Rebolting association from Switzerland, dedicated to the maintenance of old climbing routes and supporting climbers in their maintenance efforts.
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
18/07/2024 - Competitions
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Lijuan Deng of China and Ludovico Fossali of Italy.
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
16/07/2024 - Competitions
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
The Lead and Speed​World Cup took place in Chamonix, France, last weekend and was won respectively by Ai Mori and Colin Duffy, and by Zhang Shaoqin and Sam Watson. Fabio Palma reports
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
12/07/2024 - Events
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
Pro climber Caroline Ciavaldini reports about the Grimpeuses climbing meeting for women that took place on the outskirts of Paris at the end of May.
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
Jernej Kruder cruises Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
16/06/2024 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder cruises Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Slovenia's Jernej Kruder has repeated 'Greenspit', the difficult trad route established by Didier Berthod in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Andreas Hofherr repeats Into the Sun, 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland
13/06/2024 - Climbing
Andreas Hofherr repeats Into the Sun, 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland
Austrian competition climber Andreas Hofherr has repeated 'Into the Sun' the 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland, established by Bernd Zangerl in 2017 and previously repeated only by Jacopo Larcher (2021). Hofherr reports.
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
12/06/2024 - Climbing
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up the famous granite monolith after 'Digital Crack' and 'Arête Cosmiques',...
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.

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