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ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
05/12/2023 - Environment
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
The ACTS For Our Summits association has written an Open Letter to the IFSC expressing its concerns about the NEOM Masters 2023 climbing competition, and urging the IFSC to take stronger actions regarding environmental and social issues. Over 110 IFSC athletes, professional climbers, and associations have already co-signed the letter....
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold who climbed the three ridges solo in 9 hours and...
Watch Chris Sharma's attempts on Siurana's Sleeping Lion (9b+)
14/11/2023 - Climbing
Watch Chris Sharma's attempts on Siurana's Sleeping Lion (9b+)
Raw attempts of Chris Sharma on his Sleeping Lion project at Siurana in Spain, which he freed in March 2023 and graded 9b+.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Le Voyage (E10 7a) at Annot
13/11/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Le Voyage (E10 7a) at Annot
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated 'Le Voyage' (E10 7a/ 8b+) at Annot in France.
Watch Seb Bouin climb ACL (9b) at Pic Saint Loup in France
08/11/2023 - Climbing
Watch Seb Bouin climb ACL (9b) at Pic Saint Loup in France
The video of Sebastién Bouin making the first ascent of the 9b 'Ariégeois Cœur Loyal' at Pic Saint Loup in France.
A petition to 'save' the Sassolungo mountain group in the Dolomites
06/11/2023 - Environment
A petition to 'save' the Sassolungo mountain group in the Dolomites
An online petition has been launched to 'save' the Sassolungo Group in the Dolomites from privatisation. Over 45 thousand signatures have been collected so far.
Franco Cookson makes first ascent of The Dewin Stone, 9a+ slab at Twll Mawr in North Wales
01/11/2023 - Climbing
Franco Cookson makes first ascent of The Dewin Stone, 9a+ slab at Twll Mawr in North Wales
British climber Franco Cookson has made the first ascent of The Dewin Stone, a 9a+ slab at Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.
Florian Wientjes makes first repeat of Floatin (8C+) in Japan
27/10/2023 - Alpinism
Florian Wientjes makes first repeat of Floatin (8C+) in Japan
German climber Florian Wientjes has made the second ascent of Floatin, the 8C+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan put up by Ryuchi Murai in 2021.
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
20/10/2023 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
Jorge Díaz-Rullo has made the fifth ascent of Bibliographie, the 9b+ at Céüse in France first ascended in 2020 by Alex Megos.
Dai Koyamada frees Okuro, 8C boulder at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
17/10/2023 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada frees Okuro, 8C boulder at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
47-year-old Japanese climber Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Okuro, an 8C boulder problem at Gifu in Japan.
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Adam Ondra at Vranjača establishes Croatia's first 9b
04/10/2023 - Climbing
Adam Ondra at Vranjača establishes Croatia's first 9b
At Vranjača close to Paklenica in Croatia Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of 'B je to', the country's first 9b.
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
27/09/2023 - Interviews
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
Interview with Jakob Schubert after the first ascent of project Big at Flatanger in Norway last week. The 32-year-old Austrian has now called the climb B.I.G. and suggested the grade 9c. This is currently the third route in the world with this grade, after Silence at Flatanger and DNA in...
Jakob Schubert frees Project Big, the king line of Flatanger
20/09/2023 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert frees project Big, the king line of Flatanger
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of project Big at Flatanger. Bolted by Adam Ondra in 2013, the line was defined by the Czech climber as 'the true king line of the cave.'

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