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The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
Alex Rohr: progress is everything
26/06/2024 - Climbing
Alex Rohr: progress is everything
The documentary 'project Breakthrough', created by John Thornton, tells the story of how the Swiss climber Alexander Rohr breaks the 9a barrier with three top-level challenges: the first pitch of 'Change' (9a+/b) at Flatanger in Norway, 'La Castagne' (9a+) and 'Eagle 4' (9b) at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
25/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel climbed 30 fourthousanders during the first 10 days of their XPeaks project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps within 72 days.
Anna Ferrino, CEO of Ferrino, awarded the Compasso d'Oro Career Prize
21/06/2024 - Events
Anna Ferrino, CEO of Ferrino, awarded the Compasso d'Oro Career Prize
Anna Ferrino, CEO of the Italian outdoor equipment company Ferrino, has been awarded the prestigious Compasso d'Oro Career Prize. The award ceremony was held on 20 June 2024 at the ADI Design Museum in Milan.
Pietro Vidi sends his first 8C+ boulder, Fuck the System at Fionnay, Switzerland
17/06/2024 - Climbing
Pietro Vidi sends his first 8C+ boulder, Fuck the System at Fionnay, Switzerland
The Italian climber Pietro Vidi has sent his first 8C+ boulder problem, 'Fuck the System' at Fionnay in Switzerland.
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
11/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
With their ascent of Aletschhorn earlier today, Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel have embarked on their project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps. The pair will travel from one mountain to the next on foot, skis or by paraglider and hope to complete...
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Watch Seb Bouin sending Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
21/05/2024 - Climbing
Watch Seb Bouin sending Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
The video of Sébastien Bouin and his repeat of 'Bibliographie', the famous 9b+ at Céüse in France he climbed on 3 June 2023.
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana
19/05/2024 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana
38-year-old Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has sent his first 9a+, 'Papichulo' at Oliana in Spain.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
10/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
Friday 9 May, the third day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. Lots of sun, lots of smiles and bouldering until the batteries ran out.
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
09/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
Thursday 9 May, the second day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. A day marked by sun, boulders, projects, pads and pizzoccheri.
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
07/05/2024 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
The report by Italian mountaineer Leo Gheza who on 29 April, after having cycled 150km, climbed "Opera Buffa" rope solo on Mount Colodri at Arco. Almost 300m high and with difficulties up to 7c+, Gheza climbed the entire route free after attempting the first 5 pitches 3 weeks earlier.

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