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Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
On 21 September 2023 French alpinists Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy and Jules Socié skied the awe-inspiring Whillans-Cochrane ramp on Aguja Poincenot in the Fitz Roy massif of Patagonia. This is only the second ski descent, after the first carried out by the late Andreas Fransson in 2012. On 22...
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/09/2023 - Alpinism
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
In August 2023 the virgin NW Face of Ranrapalca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru was been climbed alpine style by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito via their 'Ya Pe' Cholo' (6b/80°/1,200m).
Welcome to the new planetmountain website
10/09/2023 - Events
Welcome to the new planetmountain website
Planetmountain has unveiled a new site for its readers. Features of the redesign include responsive mobile-friendly viewing and major reorganisation of contents and articles.
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
07/09/2023 - Alpinism
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
The report by Daniele Bolognani who with Davide Dallago made the first ascent of via Bolago (VII, 200m) on the east face of Quarto Campanile degli Armi in the Brenta Dolomites
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree
17/08/2023 - Climbing
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree
American climber Connor Herson has made the second ascent of Crack of Destiny (5.14b/8c) and a fast repeat of Cobra Crack (5.14b/8c) at Squamish, Canada. Other repeats include Spirit Quest (5.14d/9a), Tainted Love (5.13d R/8b) and the multipitch Télmexw (5.13c/8a+).
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
15/08/2023 - Alpinism
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
Paraclimbing World Championships 2023 in Bern
08/08/2023 - Competitions
Paraclimbing World Championships 2023 in Bern
The 2023 Paraclimbing World Championships take place in Bern, Switzerland, from 8 - 10 August 2023.
Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 begin in Bern today
01/08/2023 - Competitions
Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 begin in Bern today
The 2023 Sport Climbing World Championships begin today in Bern, Switzerland. The event will award world titles in Boulder, Lead, Speed and Paraclimbing, also distribute the first batch of 10 Olympic quota places for the Olympic Games Paris 2024.
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.
Jain Kim & Toby Roberts rule Chamonix
11/07/2023 - Competitions
Jain Kim & Toby Roberts rule Chamonix
Jain Kim from South Korea and Toby Roberts from Great Britain won the third stage of the Lead World Cup 2023 at Chamonix on Sunday 9 July. This is Kim's 30th Lead victory, Roberts' first.