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Solenne Piret, impossible dreams do come true
26/02/2023 - Interviews
Solenne Piret, impossible dreams do come true
Solenne Piret, born without her right forearm, is one of the strongest paraclimbers. With two world championship titles and boulder problems up to 7B to her name, she lives her life chasing dreams that she now knows she can turn into reality. Our interview.
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...
Watch Adam Ondra free his 9b+ at Holštejn in the Czech Republic
17/02/2023 - Climbing
Watch Adam Ondra free his 9b+ at Holštejn in the Czech Republic
The video of the first free ascent of Zvěřinec (Menagerie) at Holštejn in the Czech Republic, carried out in November 2022 by Adam Ondra who considers this 9b+ 'the second hardest route of my life'.
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
09/02/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
British rock climber James Pearson has climbed his long-standing trad project in Annot, France. 'Bon Voyage' shares the same start as Pearson's 2017 'Le Voyage' (E10), and although no grade has been put forward yet, it promises to be up there among some of the hardest trad climbs in the...
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
09/02/2023 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
On 30/02/2023 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Sognando l’inimmaginabile' on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Créton (3406m, Petites Murailles, Italy). 600 meters high, the new mixed climb is graded WI 4+ M7.
Stefano Ghisolfi crowned king of Arco with Excalibur 9b+
06/02/2023 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi crowned king of Arco with Excalibur 9b+
On Friday 3 February 2023 Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent of Excalibur at Drena close to Arco. Graded 9b+, it is now one of the hardest sport climbs in Italy.
Watch Stefano Ghisolfi & Will Bosi attempt Excalibur at Arco, Italy
04/02/2023 - Climbing
Watch Stefano Ghisolfi & Will Bosi attempt Excalibur at Arco, Italy
The video of Stefano Ghisolfi and Will Bosi attempting Excalibur, the futuristic project at Drena close to Arco, Italy, which could be 9b+ or even harder
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.
Protect Chile's Cochamó Valley petition reaches 99,000 signatures
02/01/2023 - Environment
Protect Chile's Cochamó Valley petition reaches 99,000 signatures
The petition to protect Cochamó Valley in Patagonian Chile has reached over 99000 signatures, while the Chilean government is considering applying Santuarios de la Naturaleza, or Nature Sanctuary status, to a small part of the valley.
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...
Siara Fabbri sends New Base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood
14/12/2022 - Climbing
Siara Fabbri sends New Base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood
On 24/11/2022 at Magic Wood in Switzerland American climber Siara Fabbri repeated New Base Line, the classic 8B+ boulder problem established by Bernd Zangerl.
Petition to protect Valle Cochamó in Patagonia Chile
08/12/2022 - Environment
Petition to protect Valle Cochamó in Patagonia Chile
An appeal has been launched to protect Cochamo Valley in Chile's Patagonia from being sold to private developers and to formally establish the area as a Nature Sanctuary.
Vanishing giants: the tropical glaciers of Colombia facing extinction
07/12/2022 - Environment
Vanishing giants: the tropical glaciers of Colombia facing extinction
Colombian mountaineer, photographer and documentary filmmaker Gustavo Acosta shares his knowledge and photographs about the shrinking tropical glaciers of Colombia.

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