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Tempus fugit - Ala Daglar new route in Turkey
04/07/2007 - Alpinism
Tempus fugit - Ala Daglar new route in Turkey
From 2 - 17 June Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Umberto Iavazzo and Massimo Sacchi made the first ascent of "Tempus fugit" 7b 700m on the S Face of Kizilin Baci 2944m, Turkey.
Bereziartu and Otegui free Super Weissmuller 8a/8a+ on Petit Pic De Ansabere
28/06/2007 - Climbing
Bereziartu and Otegui free Super Weissmuller 8a/8a+ on Petit Pic De Ansabere
Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui have made the first free ascent of Super Weissmuller 8a/8a+ on the SW Face of Petit Pic De Ansabere (France).
Arwa Tower NE Face first ascent by Siegrist, Senf and Burdet
20/06/2007 - Alpinism
Arwa Tower NE Face first ascent by Siegrist, Senf and Burdet
On 07/06/2007 Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf and Denis Burdet carried out first ascent of Lightning Strike (VI M5 5.9 A3 1000m) up the NE Face of Arwa Tower (6352m), Garhwal Himalaya, India.
Spitzbergen climbing Expedition to the Atomfjella mountains
07/06/2007 - Alpinism
Spitzbergen climbing Expedition to the Atomfjella mountains
In April a mixed Slovenian – Swiss - German headed to Spitzbergen in Norway where they made numerous mixed first ascents.
Dolomites new route: Gente di Mare, Lastoni di Formin
06/06/2007 - Climbing
Dolomites new route: Gente di Mare, Lastoni di Formin
In summer 2005 Marco Sterni and Mauro Florit made the first ascents of 'Gente di Mare' (7a, 6c oblig, 350m) on the Lastoni di Formin, Croda da Lago, Dolomites.
Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia by Rolando Larcher
25/05/2007 - Climbing
Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia by Rolando Larcher
On 6 May Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of Mezzogiorno di fuoco (270m, 8b max, 7c obligatory) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia. The route had been established by Larcher together with Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani in 2006.
Dave MacLeod Metalcore 8c+ first ascent
09/05/2007 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod Metalcore 8c+ first ascent
On 02/05 Dave Macleod made the first ascent of Metalcore F8c+ at The Anvil, Scotland. This is now the hardest sports route in the country.
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
28/03/2007 - Alpinism
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
At the end of February Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler, Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy travelled to Iceland to explore its potential in memory of their friend Harald Berger who died tragically in December 2006.
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
02/03/2007 - Climbing
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
At the end of December a German team led by Stefan Glowacz and Kurt Albert travelled to Venezuela where it established "Fegefeuer" IX, a new 700m route on Akopan Tepui, 2200m.
Dave MacLeod repeats Odi Social 8c+
20/02/2007 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod repeats Odi Social 8c+
Dave MacLeod has climbed his first 8c+, "L’odi Social" at Siurana, Spain to discover how this compares to cutting edge trad routes in Britain, such as his Rhapsody E11 7a.
Martina Cufar climbs Bitka s stalaktiti 8b+
15/12/2006 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs Bitka s stalaktiti 8b+
Martina Cufar from Slovenia has just repeated Bitka s stalaktiti (Battle with Stalactites) 8b+ in the massive cave at Ospo, Slovenia.
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face...
Leo Houlding interview
29/11/2006 - Interviews
Leo Houlding interview
Climber, mountaineer, but also keen snowboarder, surfer, skydiver, base jumper and nature lover, Leo Houlding is one of the most famous rock climbers and mountaineers in the world.
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
22/11/2006 - Climbing
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
At the end of September Florian Scheimpflug, Tomáš Sobotka, Ondra Benés and Harald Berger travelled to the Andringitra National Park in Madagascar where they made the first ascent of 'Short Cut' 7c+ 750m and a repeat of ...
Mario Prinoth repeats Solo per vecchi guerrieri
10/11/2006 - Climbing
Mario Prinoth repeats Solo per vecchi guerrieri
On 17 October Mario Prinoth carried out the first repeat of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri", the route first ascended by Manolo on the "El Colaz" rock face above Aune in the Feltre Dolomites.
Austrian Shipton Expedition: new routes and repeat of Women and Chalk
10/11/2006 - Alpinism
Austrian Shipton Expedition: new routes and repeat of Women and Chalk
In mid-July a five-man Austrian expedition comprised of Thomas Scheiber, Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer, Karl Dung and Ambros Sailer established two new routes in the Trango Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan, and repeated Woman and Chalk, first ascended in 2001 by Bubu...