Todra Gorge Morocco first ascent

Cesare Bugada, Simone Pedeferri and Marco Vago, establish "Le berbere et la gazelle" 7c+ on the Poisson Sacret wall, Todra gorge, Morocco
Marco Vago

The first stage of the Italian Ragni di Lecco world climbing tour came to an end in March with a successful first ascent of a 7c+ in Morocco's Todra Gorge. The team, comprised of Cesare Bugada, Simone Pedeferri and Marco Vago, established the 200m high "Le berbere et la gazelle" on the Poisson Sacret wall, located just a few kilometers from the mouth of the gorge.

"Le Berbere" was ascended from the ground up and bolts were consequently placed on lead. On 23 March Cesare Bugada returned home, leaving Simone Pedeferri and Marco Vago to finish off the work. The seven pitch route goes free at 7c+, 7a obligatory.

Full report, in Italian, on the Ragni Lecco website

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Photo top: Marco Vago on "Le berbere et la gazelle"
Photos right:Simone Pedeferri on "Le berbere et la gazelle"; oasis and desert.
Simone Pedeferri
Todra Gorge (Poisson Sacret) - Morocco
Le berbere et la gazelle
F.A.: Cesare Bugada, Simone Pedeferri, Marco Vago (FFA 23/03/06 M. Vago, S. Pedeferri)
Grade: 7c+ / 7a obl.
Length: 200m / 7 pitches (7b+, 7a+, 7a, 7a+, 7a/b, 7c+, 6b)
Gear: 9 quickdraws, 1 friend micro, Friends n° 0,50, 075, 2
Descsent: abseil along the line of ascent

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