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El Capitan with the routes West Face, Lurking Fear, Dihedral Wall, Excalibur, Muir Wall, Son of Heart, The Shield, The Salathé Wall, The Nose
Photo by Francesco Piardi
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The Nose, new women's speed record on El Capitan


On 11/06/2012 the American climbers Jes Meiris and Quinn Brett set a new female speed record up The Nose in Yosemite, climbing El Capitan's most famous rock climb in 10 hours 19 minutes.

The record set last autumn by Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga up The Nose didn't last long: two days ago their time of 10 hours and 40 minutes was beaten by the Colorado climbers Jes Meiris and Quinn Brett who climbed the same 32 pitches in 10 hours and 19 minutes. According to Rock & Ice, this new record came as a surprise to the two who had to overtake numerous other climbers on route.

Someone who knows perhaps more than anyone else about speed climbs of the Nose is Hans Florine and he commented after their ascent "Totally inspiring watching these woman cruise up the route with such confidence and grace."

Florine is currently preparing to beat the men's record together with Alex Honnold. last year the two missed out on a new record by a mere 45 seconds and the fastest time is that of Sean Leary and Dean Potter who in 2010 stopped the clock after a staggering 2 hours, 36 minutes and 45 seconds.

Some might be wondering about the significance of these climbs and what they have to do with climbing... We cannot provide a definitive answer, but the fact of the matter is that these speed ascents take place each season and that they are worth taking into account. And it is worth noting that these times, these true performances, would have been unimaginable just a few years ago. Who knows, perhaps thanks to the ability of these climbers a new era is about to begin also which goes beyond speed itself?

The Nose - Women
06/2012 - 10:19 Jes Meiris and Quinn Brett
09/2011 - 10:40 Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga
2004 - 12:15 Heidi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum

The Nose - Men
11/2010 - 2:36:45 Dean Potter and Sean Leary
10/2010 - 2:37:05 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine
10/2007 - 2:45:45 Thomas and Alexander Huber
09/2002 - 2:48:55 Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama
2001 - 3:24:20 Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill

- Lynn Hill and The Nose

TOPO: The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite





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