Stefano Ghisolfi, 8B+ at Varazze

Today's climb marks the highlight of an incredible couple of days for the 18-year-old from Turin who a mere two days ago sent two 8B's on the same day - Alphacentauri and Gioia stand at Varazze - as well as Raptor stand 8A+, Excalibur sit 8A and Gandalf 8A. The latter problem is the final part of Gandalf il grigo, which Ghisolfi sent in just a day's "work".

"Varazze suits me well" Ghisolfi told us " it's just my style: small crimps and not too many slopers. I fell off the last hold a couple of times but then I sent it." And after Gioia stand, what does he think about the sit start, that 8C freed by Christian Core and repeated recently by Adam Ondra? "It's not for me, it really is on a different planet." Yes perhaps, but perhaps only for the time being...