Home page Planetmountain.com
Nicolas Favresse making the first repeat of Greenspit, 8b+, Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Photo by Bernardo Gimenez
Nicolas Favresse making the first repeat of Greenspit, 8b+, Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Photo by Bernardo Gimenez

Nicolas Favresse repeats Greenspit and Itaca nel sole in Valle dell' Orco, Italy

by

Nicolas Favresse has made the first repeats of "Greenspit" 8b+ and "Itaca nel sole" 8b in the Orco valley, Italy.

Nicolas Favresse from Belgium has just spent some time in Italy's granite Orco valley where he came away with two prizes, the first repeat of Didier Berthod's "Greenspit" 8b+ and the first repeat of the classic five-pitch "Itaca nel sole" 8b.

Favresse needed two days of effort to come to terms with the 12m horizontal Greenspit roof crack which involves plenty of hand, fists and finger jams. First climbed by Didier Berthod in 2003 with pre-placed pro, it was subsequently freed by the Swissman when he returned in October 2005 to place all gear on lead. After dropping the crucial piece of pro Favresse ran it out to the lip in fading light and commented "This route is truly fantastic and very unique for European climbing. I can't believe I'm the first person to repeat this. It's so classic!"

A few days later Favresse teamed with habitual partner Sean Villanueva to make the first free repeat of Itaca nel sole, the classic 5 pitch line up the Caporal face climbed by Motti and Morello in 1975 and freed by Cristian Brenna and Marzio Nardi in 2003. Favresse, no newcomer to difficult multi-pitches, stated " It's a very nice technical challenge of beautiful climbing. On the hard pitches the pro is all in-situ so in some respects it's not really a trad route. I had a great time exploring the Orco valley, mixing it all from bouldering, sport climbing to trad and multi pitch. And there's still so much to explore..."

We're sure there's more to come yet. In the meantime, check out the video of Cristian Brenna and Marzio Nardi during the 2003 first free ascent.




Share


SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer