Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso

Alessio Roverato continues his search for "off the beaten track" rock faces, for places where he can climb in solitude. After forging La Gioia del silenzio in Val Gadena, the young climber from Padova has now established a new sport route ground-up, once again in nearby Valsugana which is evidently a mine of rock faces still waiting to be discovered. The new route - Momento Libero - takes a line up the impressive South East Face of Sasso Rosso whose characteristic yellow roofs and overhangs are clearly visible from the village San Gaetano di Valstagna. The new 330m outing weaves its way up slabs, roofs and overhangs and offers extremely exposed climbing up to 8a max and 7a/b obligatory, "right through the heart" of the yellow overhang in the centre of the face. The route was established over a number of days and also required a good dose of "alpine experience"... For those who don't know it, this is the key to Roverato's search.


MOMENTO LIBERO – SE Face Sasso Rosso
by Alessio Roverato

Sasso Rosso is a great rock bastion which dominates the village San Gaetano. Although it doesn't immediately spring into view as you drive through the Valsugana, it nevertheless caught my eye, ever curious to discover new new rock faces and routes. No sooner had I noticed it I was there, looking upwards, observing that sea of roofs and overhangs which characterise the section where I then went on to establish the route.

Beneath this massive yellow section I was overcome by the thought that I might not find a direct, free line. And then I encountered immense difficulties in finding someone keen enough to create a route there so in the end I was forced to put things off to a later date.

Everything remained on hold for a year and a half until this spring, when I set my sights on the project together with my girlfriend. I finished the route off at the start of summer and during the months in between there were all the usual things associated with a first ascent: that sinking feeling in my stomach when a hold broke and I found myself suddenly hanging off the cliff I hadn't had the courage to eight, various headfirst falls with a TV size, 19inch block, etc.

All pitches were freed individually but the route still awaits its first one-day ascent. It's a pleasant line which I recommend to those who want to climb off the beaten track.

Alessio Roverato

Thanks to: Montura, SCARPA, AlpStation Bassano


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