Madagascar multi-pitch on Tsaranoro Be

New routing activity on Madagascar has resulted in a 600m, ground-up first ascent of Manara-Potsiny (8a) on the main face of Tsaranoro Be. In late August a Austro/Germanic team comprised of Toni Lamprecht, Felix Frieder, Sandra Wielebnowski and Benno Wagner spent nine days ascending their new route ground-up, placing a total of 160 bolts on the 18 pitch granite line. After having freed all individual pitches, on 28 August Toni Lamprecht redpointed the entire line in an 11 hour single push.

Simon Carter, who witnessed the ascent, describes the route as follows: "the lower 400m of the route provides pitch after pitch of technical climbing in the French 7th grade. The 13th pitch then provides the crux tacking a slightly overhanging headwall for 30m on small edges. This incredible pitch starts with a boulder-problem, packs some athletic moves in the middle part leading to a fingery finish. The final 200m of the route provides varied climbing, up an exposed pillar, on beautiful rock all the way to the top of the pillar. From there an optional 100m of easy climbing would lead to the summit of the massif. The route is likely to be considered an extreme classic of Tsaranoro, which is possibly THE premium big wall destination in the Southern Hemisphere."


Manara-Potsiny, Tsaranoro Be, Madagascar
F.A. Toni Lamprecht, Felix Frieder, Sandra Wielebnowski, Benno Wagner 08/2007
RP: 28/08/2007
Grade: 8a
Length: 600 m, 18 pitches
Pitches: 4+, 6c, 6c+, 7b, 7a, 7b+, 7a+, 7a, 7b, 6c, 7b, 7a+, 8a, 7a+, 7a, 6c+, 7a, 7a+
Gear: 2x60m rope
Descent: the route is equipped for descent by abseil.