Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training

Jerry Moffatt is certainly one of the legendary figures of modern climbing. After serving an outstanding "apprenticeship" with British trad, throughout the 80's and 90’s Moffatt left his mark on sports climbs and boulders worldwide, and unsurprisingly he was also one of the world’s first professional climbers. For a while he lived with Wolfgang Güllich and Kurt Albert, another two other undisputed greats of the "new" wave of climbing and during his stay in Germany he became involved in the development of the Campus Board, famously used by Güllich in his quest to free undisputed masterpiece: the 9a Action Directe in the Frankenjura.

Over the years this training device has played an essential aspect for hardcore climbing training. In this video interview Moffatt takes a step back in time to talk retrace the birth of the Campus Board, discuss early training methods and highlight the importance of quality vs quantity when training pure power. The interview also includes early footage of his training, together with Ben Moon, in their cellar in Sheffield.



16/02/2016 - Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.