Jenny Lavarda climbs Claudio CaffÃ¨ and becomes first Italian woman to climb 8c
Jenny Lavarda has become the first Italian woman to climb 8c with her 08/09/2006 ascent of "Claudio Caffè" at Terra Promessa, Arco
|Jenny Lavarda has become the first Italian woman to climb 8c with here recent ascent of "Claudio Caffè" at Terra Promessa, Arco! On Friday 8 September, after placing last in what was for her a very deluding Rock Master 2006, Jenny found the right determination to redpoint these 27 meters, first climbed by none other than François Legrand during one of his famous Arco "summer holidays".
A feat of this sort had been up for grabs for a while: in July she sent her second 8b+, "Le dita del guerriero" at the Covolo, Vicenza and on that occasion we had suggested that 8c was just around the corner. But as we all know, improving isn't something that can be taken for granted, especially not at the high end where physical and psychological success is always way at the limit.
But this barrier continues to move, slowly but surely, ever upwards at the hands of high-calibre climbers. The first Italian 8a (and possibly world's first) was climbed way back in 1986 by Luisa Iovane when she climbed "Come Back" in Val San Nicolò, whilst the 8b hurdle fell in 1990 thanks to Raffaella Valsecchi who redpointed "Jedi" 8b at Cornalba. For the record, the first female 8c was climbed in 1998 by Josune Bereziartu when she sent Honky Tonky at Oñate, Spain.
Jenny's climbing history has taken her from her debut in Youth competitions to her first Italian title via sports climbing and ice climbing World Cups. It is a history underlined by a driving vertical passion, years of constant training, growth and improvement. Now she has reached this important goal, too. Well done Jenny and... let's hear from you soon!