Ira de Gugal added to Punta Zanzi in Central Andes of Chile

Chilean climbers Baltazar Calera, twin brothers Joaquin and Santiago Guglielmetti and Matías Tapia Artigas have completed Ira de Gugal, a 6-pitch outing on north face of Punta Zanzi in the central Andes of Chile.

Charachterized by "steep walls, sustained technical terrain and a distinct alpine character," the route follows a sustained crack system combining free climbing with the occasional aid, past difficulties up to 11-/A0. Established ground-up, the route shares only the first pitch with Ira de wotan before continuing independently to the summit. Protected with a mix of trad and bolts, due to the variable rock quality it demands constant attention.

Located about one hour from from San Jose de Maipo, circa two hours southwest of Chile, Punta Zanzi forms part of the so-called “Central Andes Trilogy”, the other two being Cerro el Morado and Cerro Arenas. All of them can be reached from the Cajon del Maipo valley and are famous for their beauty and committing nature.

 

 

 

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